Replies

1. 
   UncleDunc | Dec 09, 2002 08:51pm | #1

   I've done a little, and I would say it really is that easy. The only thing being left out is that some of it is not real resistant to impact. All the work I did was on hand held sculpture size pieces, so I never tried any power tools. Hacksaw, knives, files and sandpaper worked really well, though. If I were going to try power tools, I wouldn't freehand anything until I was real familiar with the material. I'd set up guides and take lots of small passes until I was sure how it was going to behave.

2. 
   GeeSeaWhy | Dec 09, 2002 09:42pm | #2

   Dust. Lots of very fine dust. If you succeeded in (for example) running a router with a flush trim bit down a length of it, everything in the room would be covered in dust. I've never done than but having worked soapstone with hand tools that's what I'd expect. And I'd estimate your chances of success at somewhere between slim and none. As Uncle Dunc says, the stuff does not resist impact. There is no grain structure to it so (the good news) it doesn't matter which direction you cut/rout/sand it, (the bad news) it's just as likely to break away.

   Let us know how you get on. I've thought about trying to turn soapstone but I haven't yet come up with a way of holding it on the lathe that I think would work.

   Graeme

1. 
   UncleDunc | Dec 09, 2002 10:01pm | #3

   >> I've thought about trying to turn soapstone ...

   FWW had an article a long time ago about turning alabaster. Some of the tips in there might be relevant to soapstone.

1. 
   GeeSeaWhy | Dec 11, 2002 09:52am | #9

   Thanks Dunc,

   Turning soapstone should be a lot like alabaster - soapstone is a bit softer but the two are more similar than they are different.

   Now maybe that's a reason to cough up for the CD...

   Graeme

3. 
   jako17 | Dec 10, 2002 06:34am | #4

   BE very careful I believe that soapstone is similar or related to asbestos I'm sure that Ihave read warnings about it in FW.I saw sculptors working with it wearing tyvek suits and airhats outside ,in a remote location in Europe.

4. 
   GForcier | Dec 10, 2002 06:43am | #5

   I built a soapstone-top harvest style table and it worked fine, although I didn't have to cut the piece. I used a roundover bit in the router and a random orbital sander on it with no problem, the stuff really is quite soft. the material I had was about inch and half thick. the Vermont stone company where I bought the stone also installs kitchen counters and makes sinks of the stuff. I didn't ask what they sawed the stone with but I know they do it on site.

   I'd ask your question of a stone supplier. I'm guessing a woodworking blade would not do for cutting through the stone but I don't see why a masonry blade wouldn't.

   gaf

1. 
   Froed | Dec 10, 2002 02:27pm | #6

   Thanks for the quick replies.  Uncle Dunc, it sounds like taking small bites is the way to go with it.  I wasn't really planning on freehanding anything.  Since it's essentially a countertop, the shape will be simple, and being soapstone, it'll be expensive enough that I'll do my darndest to make sure I get it right the first time!  Graeme also mentioned it's tendency to break, so I'll make sure it's well-supported.  Actually, I'd have it  cut to size when I order it, except I wanted to have a curved front on the vanity, and I thought it'd be easier to match the top to the case, rather than vice versa.

   Graeme & jako, thanks for the heads-up on the dust.  I figured it would be an issue.  I'm guessing it's like mdf, only worse, but I do have a 1-micron bag on the dc, so I hope with that and a good respirator, I'll be able to handle it.  So far, I'm not planning on making soapstone a normal part of my work.

   Gaf, I hadn't really thought about a local stone supplier.  I guess I assumed soapstone was specialized enough that it wasn't an issue, but I will definitely ask around.  If you have pics of your table, I'd like to see them.

   Thanks again,

   Froed

1. 
   Biscardi | Dec 11, 2002 06:32am | #7

   I have made three tops for lecterns and a tombstone (dead Union Soldiers in backyard) out of soapstone. It routs very easily with carbide bits. I'd not take an overly large pass. The dust is amazing. Try to work with it outdoors, or plan on spending a day cleaning the shop.

   You can shape it with a belt sander. A belt sander and a light touch followed by a random orbit sander to 220 grit and then green scotchbrite leaves a nice finish, but you can't really polish it like marble. It will not hold a screw unless you drill a pilot hole and dip the screw in epoxy.You can cut it with a carborundum disc that goes on a Skill saw.

   There are some rumors that our local sopestone quarry is contaminated with asbestos, but a well informed source tells me this is not so.

   Mineral oil darkens and shines it nicely, but you have to reapply it several times.

   You can also carve it and sandblast designs/letters into it.

   Best wishes,

   Frank

   PS I have 6,000lbs of it in my living room in the form a Tulikivi Stove . I think it is kind of neat.

   Edited 12/10/2002 10:35:20 PM ET by BISCARDI

   Edited 12/10/2002 10:36:00 PM ET by BISCARDI

1. 
   bobhallsr | Dec 11, 2002 08:22am | #8

   I've used soapstone in sculpting class from Frank's local quarry.  It had been tested and was certified free of asbestos.  Aparently some soapstone does contain asbestoes which makes it unsuitable for milling up into talcum powder.  BTW Frank, the piece that I have does have a high gloss marble-like finish.  I used increasingly fine wet or dry paper followed with wax.

   BJGardening, cooking and woodworking in Southern Maryland

2. 
   Froed | Dec 11, 2002 03:06pm | #10

   Frank & BJ, thanks for the additional info.  I looked for the MSDS for soapstone (aka steatite), and checked out the CDC for any info.  Mostly it just said lots of dust, but nothing proven toxic (of course that doesn't really mean it isn't).  There was a study of mill workers a while ago that showed lung cancer, but this was attributed to another chemical.

   I was kind of wondering about attaching the top to the case.  I'm not really comfortable with just adhesive, so I think I'll go with the pilot hole & epoxied screw approach.

   Thanks again & happy holidays

   Fred