I am building a box to put a bathroom sink on that will be mounted to the wall. The mahogany that I am using seems to be warping. My garage is unheated, but I try to keep it some what warm with a portable heater.The wood has been machined to thickness and edge glued to the width that I need. any suggestion on how to stop this problem. I thought Mahoganey was a pretty stable wood?
Any help would be great.
thanks. JWebber
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Replies
what kind of portable heater are you using? A propane heater will put moisture into the air as a by-product of burning propane.
I didn't see any reference to your location in your user profile: where are you, and what's the weather like where you live?
Have you measured relative humidity of your shop and the moisture content of your mahogany?
If conditions permit, you may be able to allow it to reach EMC in your house, taking it out to the workshop only when necessary, without it turning into a potato chip. However, under adverse conditions, that could just make things worse.
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
thanks for the responses. I live in the north west where it is raining now. I was using a propane heater untill I started this project,and switched to an electric heater. Idon't have a moisture meter,but I did bring the wood into the house to sit for a couple of days and will take it out to the garage to work on it ,luckily it's a small project. what is the ideal humidity range for woodworking, because I havn't had this much problem with wood cuping in the past.Thanks JWebber
I also live in the PNW, I just machined up a Mahogany bean I bought this past spring into 3/4 stock and I've had no issues with cupping despite all the rain. But I use an electric heater exclusivly.
Taking the wood into the house and then back to the shop may cause it to absorb the moister in the shop, and cup.
J,
In your post, you said the wood was "machined to thickness". Is there any chance, when the wood was planed down to the present thickness, more material could have been removed from one side than the other? If that occurs, the wood ends up slightly drier on one side than the other, which could lead to warping. Just a thought. Gary
African Mahogany moves more than 'Honduran.' Do you know which you have?
Uneven planing can be a problem. Did you flip the stock on each pass through the planer?
Propane heaters are fine for drywallers, bad for cabinetmakers/furnituremakers. Dump it.
thanks for all the responses . It was Honduran Mahogany. I believe the cause of my problem may have been uneven planing, after a few days of the wood being in the house it settled down and I was able to finish the project.
Thanks JWebber
I always rough out my stock "fat" and let it sit stickered for a week or so before final dimensioning. I'm working with hard maple now and it always moves a little after the rough-out. As others have mentioned try to take the same amounts off each side as well.
When you glued it up did you alternate the grain direction? That could also help minimize warping.
Get my wife! She passed on long ago.. Let me build stuff in the kitchen as long as I was not sanding!
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