Ok folks I have reached the point in the new house were it is time to built the Bar/eating nook counter.
This will be a large slab of Mahogany with nothing fancy for edge treatment. It is raised on some metal brackets up of the main kitchen counter. The main Kitchen cabinets are a light Cherry (almost a natural for lack of a better term) But I want the Mahogany to contrast with this so I am looking for fairly dark and kind of rich or glossy. (not necessarily the glassy surface that some people use)
This will be a eating area, but will also be set up to be used like a bar during parties and such.
So the question is how best to finish this. I have NEVER worked with Mahogany before (this should be fun!!!!) So please point me in the right direction. (Articles, books, what have you) and also please give advice for a safe and protective surface on this. It will have stuff set on in and spilled on it (and I assume at some point alchohal may spill on it.)
I will have the ability to take this off (the brackets allow for that) and take it into the shop and refinish so in the extremes (someone dumps a fifth on it say) I can rework the finish is need. So I would rather have something that is simpler to fix then something that if it does get messed up will be hard to redo. (unless it is almost impossible to mess up in the first place, and I have never heard of that type of finish)
Well thanks for and tips or pointers.
Doug Meyer
Replies
(someone dumps a fifth on it say) ..
I would NEVER invite them back!
While I tend to agree with you, kicking them out after they wipe out the top is a little late to help the top!
Doug
I work at a cabinet shop in northern michigan and if we have to make a hardwood top that people work on and will see abuse we use a product thats made by Michigan Maple Block called "The Good Stuff". Its a polyurathane finish that is jelly like in cosistantcy. The good thing about it is that if you want to renew the finish, all you have to do is rub the top with steel wool or a scotchbrite pad, and reapply. It doesn't give you a built up finish look but it does look good. Its inexpensive so it would be worth trying on a scrap piece to see if you like it. Your local lumberyard should be able to get it for you.
I will look for that an try it on a scrap, thanks.
Doug
I looked up that finish (the good stuff) and it is just a normal gel urethane. There are many around. It will require numerous coats to get any real build. Which is why it is easy to repair, it doesn't really build a film finish.
If you want something that is glossy and easy to repair and durable, well join the club. No one finish has all of the attributes you want. If you want glossy and easy to repair then use shellac. It will look wonderful but if someone spills that fifth on it and you don't clean it up until the next morning you will get to see how easy it is to repair.
If you want glossy and durable then try waterlox varnish or behlans rockhard. Both are very durable and come in gloss but they are not easy to repair.
Poly protects well and is easy to apply but touch-ups won't be invisible. If alcohol will be near it, shellac it out of the picture. If you want a heavy film, bartop varnish is one way but you won't be able to feel the wood, if that's a consideration. Lacquer looks great but if it's heavy enough, is prone to checking with expansion/contraction. It's easy to touch up, though. Spar varnish is good, too. Using mineral oil, like you might do with a cutting board could work. Washable, re-newable, safe, etc.
What about a catalyzed finish? Hard, durable and looks good. Chrystallac (SP?), maybe?
I am not sure that glossy is that important for the bar.
In fact I was wondering what would happen (looks and durability) if I just oiled it (kind of like a cutting board)
Just and idea. I know that some peaple use mahogany for counter tops and they are not permanitly sealed so thier has to be some way to do this.
I would rather go with maintainable and repairable then glossy and tough. I have no doubt that at some point someone will wipe out the finish on this and it will have to be fixed. (I mean it is going to be a bar/eating top.
Doug Meyer
One reason I mentioned mineral oil is that even if it's dented and dinged, the oil still protects since it penetrates. I have a maple cutting board and for the first month, I oiled it according to the instructions on the oil container. Since then, I don't think I have oiled it but there are no stains at all and I use it all the time. I wash it off, dry it and it's as good as new. I know I need to oil it but I'm in no hurry. For what you want to do, it should work well and if you can buy food grade mineral oil in gallons or quarts, you might get it for a decent price.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Hey
I have a table that I had put some Danish oil on it. There a hardness stuff in it that make it easy to clean after. Looks great on hard exotic wood.
Good luck
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