Replies

1. 
   ChasStanford | Mar 02, 2004 12:07am | #1

   I'd just wax it with Mylands or other high-solvent wax.  It'll clean the woodwork and give it a glow at the same time.  If the paint splatters are few and relatively unnoticeable when standing on the floor looking up, I wouldn't try to remove them.

   If you do scrape the splatters, then I'd do a daub very sparingly with mineral spirits to remove the flecks and then come back with the wax.  Unless the splatters are over very wide areas the small amount of shellac you'll remove when scraping will not be noticed as the wax will impart some glow which I believe will blend with the surrounding areas.

   I don't think linseed oil does much for you in this instance.  If you're using BLO, then you're doing some cleaning at the same time since it has solvents in it.  You accomplish the same thing and more with the Mylands.

2. 
   JohnWW | Mar 02, 2004 12:56am | #2

   David,

   If the original shellac finish has held up for almost a hundred years I'd just wash it off with soap and water, touch up the damaged spots and leave it alone.  If anything needs to be refinished use shellac also, it is still a perfectly good finish. 

   Don't use linseed oil because it will darken over time.  Wax is less likely to cause long term problems, but in conservation work you try to do the least amount possible, especially when the original finish has held up so well.

   John W. 

3. 
   Paul_Snyder | Mar 02, 2004 01:13am | #3

   Doud,

   Your "fix" for the paint splatters is okay, though I'd try a solvent that worked on the paint and not the shellac. That'll avoid the damage/repair routine.

   Don't use linseed oil over the shellac. Linseed oil will cure to form a film over the shellac and can't be easily removed. As linseed oil ages, it darkens and in some cases will turn very dark and muddy/opaque. If the shellac is is good shape, you don't need any polish. If it has become dull, losing it's luster, but is still sound, use a hard paste wax once every 3-4 years. A couple good brands, recommended by conservators, include Antiquax and Renaissance.

   Paul

1. 
   DavidxDoud | Mar 02, 2004 02:11am | #4

   thanks to you for your quick responce - most of the scraping is going on along the ceiling/crown molding line - 12' ceilings and sloppy painting over the years makes for a messy demarcation - mostly scrape the last vertical surface of the cove mold that is the dividing element - then caulk the line -

   it is a nice original situation,  but not like working on biltmore or something - whatever I do now will probably be it for the next 50 years - i know that it's not gonna get paste waxed regularly - I'll see what I can scare up - maybe if I can order online tonight -

   gotta work the evening shift tonight - I removed the window sash,  have been scraping them and preparing for paint - I've got to get the frames prepped - filthy - coal dust from 50 years ago - got everything scraped and scrubbed -

   we got private money to do this project and we pissed off the architect that came with the $ when we insisted on keeping the original windows,  so we are on our own,  but it's gonna look great - -

   here's link that shows a picture of the structure - it still looks just like that - - we'll update the site as we press to the finish - http://www.geocities.com/roannlibrary/History.html"there's enough for everyone"

1. 
   DavidxDoud | Mar 02, 2004 07:47am | #5

   well, back from the library - got the other half of the window frames ready to recieve sash - took half the sash in so the painters can work on them tomorrow - I've got 8 sash left in my shop to scrape/sand/etc (out of 28) - here's a few picts I took -

   here's the entry,  fireplace,  and window banks

   "there's enough for everyone"

   Edited 3/1/2004 11:50:25 PM ET by David Doud

   
4. 
   DavidxDoud | Mar 02, 2004 07:53am | #6

   most of the finish looks about like this - really,  the only deteriorated place is the east window sills - I'll re-shellac them, maybe a little stain first -

   "there's enough for everyone"

   
1. 
   DavidxDoud | Mar 02, 2004 07:59am | #7

   here's the type of stuff I deal with - a before and after picts (sorry about the poor quality) of a window apron-"there's enough for everyone"

   
1. 
   fdampier5 | Mar 02, 2004 10:54pm | #8

   David!

     alcohol!!!

     alcohol!!

    it slowly disolves shellac and can be used to blend in repairs to the point that they become invisable!!!   alcohol.

1. 
   DavidxDoud | Mar 03, 2004 02:20am | #9

   no need to bring out the big guns in this situation - - it's lookin' good - - I used up a dozen tubes of Almond caulk and need a few more,  got about 100' of cove to ceiling to do with white -

   nice day today,  went outside and looked critically at the site - kinda wish I hadn't - God,  what a job - piles and ruts and butchered trees and mud and so much to do before dedication - -the roofing company left about a pallet of tiles - I asked them to leave a dozen and a couple each of the ridge and cap - - whaddu do with them - a dozen you stack in the furnace room - a pallet,  I don't know - throw them away? - - we have a utility building that used to be the bulk oil plant office and garage from 1937 - needs doors and window work - right next to the library - - gawd -

   it'll all be alright... 

   "there's enough for everyone"

2. 
   DaveHeinlein | Mar 03, 2004 02:53am | #10

   Careful with that alchohol. In many cases, the shellac is tinted, and there is the possibility of creating thin spots and blotchy-ness if you rub too long in one spot.

   It looks to me like there might be some tint in this job.

   Have you tried anything like "Oopps"? As long as it contains no alcohol, it probably won't affect the finish.

1. 
   DavidxDoud | Mar 03, 2004 03:28am | #11

   I think I agree with you on the tint - the crown and ceiling 'beams' are quite a bit darker than the casings and doors - - it's a good size room,  which is what makes it a big job - the vast majority of surface needs nothing but cleaning and apparently a wax job -

   and since I didn't have enough on my plate,  my sawyer brought the woodmizer today - he likes me and just dropped the machine off,  allowing me to use it as conditions exist,  but I've got 10K+ board feet laying in logs and I'd rather be making boards than caulking crown mold - -

   "there's enough for everyone"

2. 
   DaveHeinlein | Mar 03, 2004 03:47am | #12

   Better get after them logs before the bugs do. Springs comin'

3. 
   DavidxDoud | Mar 08, 2004 08:08am | #13

   hey - just a quick note of thanks to you all,  but especially those who turned me onto the wax - when I posted,  I was caulking seams between the crown/casings and the ceiling and walls,  trying to keep ahead of the painters - - I've since had time to start cleaning the woodwork,  and I can hardly believe how dirty it was - - coal dust,  and we haven't burned coal in 50 years - I don't believe the beams or crown had ever been cleaned - - many buckets of soapy water and many rags later the difference is dramatic!

   I applied wax this afternoon and evening - whatta shine - the ole place looks grand - - the shellac is in excellent condition - I have quite a bit to do yet,  but things are proceeding smoothly and you can't argue with success -

   again,  thanks - - DOUD"there's enough for everyone"