Replies

1. 
   Danford_C_ | Jun 04, 2002 09:21am | #1

   Greg,

   Try going to http://www.planemaker.com

   Dano

   "Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright
2. 
   lwilliams | Jun 04, 2002 04:30pm | #2

   Greg,

   British planes were often finished with shellac and American planes would likely be linseed oil or shellac. Both can be cleaned with mineral spirits and then a new but very light coat of finish can bring the finish back to life. I'd use maybe a half-pound cut of garnet shellac on a plane that had a shellac finish and a thinned oil coat on one that had a linseed finish. Use a quality oil finish like Minwax's Antique Oil but less is better in this case. Shellac will melt with heat, and there's a lot of heat generated on the sole of a molding plane, so go real light with shellac too.

   Just one coat should do the trick and then buff the finish out. I prefer fine Scotch Bright type pads (gray colored) for this but you can use 000 or 0000 steel wool. Follow with a good paste wax like TreWax or Minwax. Be careful to keep wax off the bearing surfaces of the wedges, abutments, or mortise. Wax acts as a lubricant and you won't be able to keep the wedge set if you wax these surfaces.

   It's easy to tell if the plane has a shellac finish. If a little alcohol is rubbed on a discrete location and the finish gets tacky, it's shellac.  I don't know of a good way to clean the relatively ugly bleed build-up of old finish you'll find on  some old planes that were soaked in linseed oil. This ugly scabby looking build-up found on end grain surfaces is almost impossible to remove without revealing new wood.

   I hope this helps.

1. 
   wudwker | Jun 04, 2002 10:58pm | #3

   I have restored a number of wooden planes over the years, using a simple technique taught to me by a Master English Cabinetmaker, and it works excellently.  Wash, but don't soak all the wooden surfaces with a concentrated solution of warm water and powdered Tide.  Rinse well and let dry.  Soak all parts in raw (not boiled) linseed oil.  Wipe dry.  About once a year, I wipe down all my planes with a light coat of more raw linseed oil.  This method does not raise the grain, makes for no buildup and keeps the tools in excellent shape.  And it's cheap!

                                                     Regards,

                                                                 Carl

2. 
   GregB126 | Jun 05, 2002 01:23am | #5

   Thanks, Larry, your advice always helps.  I have heard of the linseed soaking technique before, but have never been comfortable with the concept.  It sure seems like a great way to goop things up, especially on the inside of the wood itself.

   Cheers,

   Greg

3. 
   Alan | Jun 04, 2002 11:11pm | #4

   Greg,

   I knew a fellow who made his own wooden planes.  He would seal the mouth with a bit of window putty and then fill it up with linseed oil (sorry, but I don't remember if it was raw or boiled).  He would top it off every couple days or so to keep it filled up.  When the linseed oil oozed out both ends he poured out the remaining oil, removed the putty, and put it in a warm spot to cure(hmmm, must have been boiled oil).  Once fully cured the finish was flat gorgeous, and the sole was smooth and slick.

   Alan