Replies

1. 
   Eireannach | Jun 11, 2011 09:16am | #1

   Pre-turn plug

   I was wondering about that possibility, unfortunately after the fact, but I wasn't sure how to secure the plug.  So it will split out at the paper line even if it's glued in?  Any idea how to achieve this groove now that I have turned the spindles?

1. 
   ButchGMacDonald | Jun 11, 2011 11:27am | #2

   After the fact

   That probably need a jig to hold the spindle level and take the waste with a router or or a good sharp chisel.  Both of which would take a lot of fiddling.  It sounds like it would be way easier to make new spindles with pre-cut notches.  Just make them extra long in case you have trouble prying out the paper backed plug.  You can cut off the pry marks later.

1. 
   user-64052 | Jun 12, 2011 11:55am | #3

   mount them back

   in the the lathe between centres. make up a plywood jig to mount a router for the job. it doesn't have to be anything elaborite unless you feel that you want to do more in the future.  then all that you have to do is chisel out the stops and the ends

   ron

2. 
   joinerswork | Jun 12, 2011 01:51pm | #4

   Eire,

   A sheet of brown paper glued in a glue line is tradionally how split turnings and quarter columns are made, or how carvings are held to a piece of scrap stock while they are being carved.  Once the work is complete, inserting a thin blade into the paper joint splits the joint apart, with half the thickness of the paper remaining on each surface.  You might have to be a little more careful getting the split started to separate an inside corner joint.

   You could "simply" chisel the recess out by hand.  You'd have to devise (heh) a way to clamp or hold them firmly without defacing them.  A round, tapered object isn't easy to firmly fix to a benchtop.  Then there's the job of laying out the recess onto a curved, tapered surface.  Finally, the hand tool skills involved in chopping two uniform plane surfaces into the leg, intersecting at right angles are not trivial.

   An overarm router could do the trick, or a conventional router running in a cradle above the leg held securely underneath.  You'll have to make the cradle, sort of a open-topped box, the sides of which capture and guide the router base.  Below the router support, there must be some way to support, secure and adjust the legs so the cuts can be accurately, repeatably made..

   Frankly, I think you could re-make the legs more easily than salvage the ones you have. 

   Either way you choose to go, good luck with your project,

   Ray 

1. 
   Eireannach | Jun 13, 2011 10:06am | #5

   I was thinking of doing the chiseling thing, but all of the issues you raised have been circling around in my head, not the least of which includes my skill with chisels perhaps not being adequate for this job.  I also haven't solved the layout problem or stabilization problem.  Unfortunately, I turned these spindles from a piece of ancient kauri I had.  The top of the box is a freeform branch joint of ancient kauri that I have smoothed to 1500 grit (kauri looks really good at the very high-grit smoothness) & I turned the legs to match.  The body of the box is koa.  Maybe I can figure out a different way to attach the legs that would loook good too.  I'll see if I can post a pic of the work in progress. 

   Alternately, I can keep these spidles for a future project & find a different complementary wood.  :)