Replies

1. 
   UncleDunc | Nov 29, 2004 08:49am | #1

   I'd use maple and finish it with mineral oil or nothing it all. But all that proves is that I'm a traditionalist.

2. 
   polarsea1 | Nov 29, 2004 08:51am | #2

   Hard maple is the traditional wood for pastry/bread boards. It's stain resistant, hard, and smooth grained. I've never seen one with any kind of finish, but if I were going to put one on it, I'd use salad bowl finish - non-toxic.

   Bill

3. 
   CharlieD | Nov 29, 2004 10:06am | #3

   I agree that maple is the wood of choice. But I'd add that sanding, and even scraping is likely to make the dough stick. Consider handplaning for the final surfacing, assuming that you have a razor sharp well tuned smoother. This will cut fibers rather than abrading like sanding, which will leave tiny grooves all ove the wood, even if you can't see 'em. Planing leaves a glass smooth surface. And then, salad bowl oil will be a good finish choice, although shellac is also non-toxic. No idea how shellac vs oil would affect the tendency of the dough to stick.

   Charlie

   I tell you, we are here to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you different. --K Vonnegut
4. 
   BG | Nov 29, 2004 03:12pm | #4

   Doc,

   Just a note to add to others comments.  Preparing pastry and preparing bread dough are usually on diferent surfaces...pastry you want to keep on a cold surface (granite, marple, etc.) and bread dough ...wood is the best...it has a nice effect on the dough...wood provides a bit of friction for the dough to climb on when rising. No finish is required...I just burnish the maple and let the flour work into the surface 

    

5. 
   datachanel | Nov 29, 2004 04:10pm | #5

   Hello, as a bread baker as well as woodworker I spotted a new product in the King Arthur Flour Bakers catalog. It's supposedly a wood conditioner of beeswax and mineral oil. Looks interesting, although I admit that I haven't tried it. Here's the web address for it http://shop.bakerscatalogue.com/detail.jsp?id=7418&pv=1101732012342
   Good luck

   Datachanel

   Doing things the hard way

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Nov 29, 2004 05:50pm | #6

   Mineral oil and either beeswax or paraffin is the traditional treatment for commercial boards. Either is easy to apply. Heat some mineral oil in a double boiler and shave in some paraffin or beeswax. The ratio is about 5-7 parts mineral oil to one part wax. Apply it warm, let it sit overnight and do it again the next day. The following day, lightly scrape off any excess and buff.Howie.........

   Edited 11/29/2004 6:20 pm ET by Howie

1. 
   datachanel | Nov 29, 2004 08:29pm | #7

   THanks, anyway to save money is cool with me.
   Datachanel

   Doing things the hard way

6. 
   JohnWW | Nov 29, 2004 11:22pm | #8

   Maple or a hard pine will work, more important is to glue it up out of quarter sawn stock, the board will stay much flatter.  An initial coat of wax or oil wouldn't hurt, I'd stay away from anything that leaves a surface film, so no shellac.

   John W.

1. 
   polarsea1 | Nov 30, 2004 12:46am | #10

   I wouldn't put any finish on the board that I wasn't willing to eat.

1. 
   TheOldCynic | Nov 30, 2004 06:09am | #11

   Good suggestions from everyone - Many thanks to all who responded.

   I was aware that I should use an edible finish........  Hmm - that doesn't sound quite right, but you know what I mean.

   Trust everyone had a good Thanksgiving Day - - We had ours last month, on a Monday.  Big humungus turkey, all the family, in-laws and all couldn't finish it, so on Tues we all ate turkey salad.  Wed we pigged out on hot turkey sandwichs, then turkey a la king on Thurs.  On Fri, there was so much left over DW made fish cakes out of it.

   Tnx again

   Doc - The Old Cynic

7. 
   bobpowers | Nov 29, 2004 11:43pm | #9

   I am looking at one this very minute that's probably 80 years old, and like new. It is made of maple, and has no finish on it.

8. 
   TheOldCynic | Dec 01, 2004 08:30am | #12

    hairdryer or a heat gun

   Hadn't thought of that - - Another one to try!

   Thanks again

   Doc

1. 
   lwj2 | Dec 02, 2004 04:40am | #13

   Doc, you can also try using warm oil finish, (I made a "water jacket" with a pan of hot water, finish in a can) wiped on a heavy coat and then worked it in with bare hands.Fair warning, the friction heat builds up quickly, so be careful that you don't burn your hands. I've done it on a couple of pieces and was pleased with the results. FWIW, the surfaces were smooth-planed not sanded.Regards,Leon Jester, Roanoke VA

9. 
   LastUnicorn | Mar 26, 2015 04:04am | #14

   making a Pastry Board

   You can go to a tile place and see if you can get a sheet of marble 18" X 20" about 1/2" thick . works great