Replies

1. 
   DougU | Oct 17, 2005 05:53am | #1

   Joe

   Could you run a router around something with the proper radius on it?

   Not necessarily a flush cut but a strait bit with the radiused piece sitting on top of the MDF piece, your router base following that piece. All you have to do is get one radius right and the rest will come from it.

   I would think that I could radius one corner exact with a sanding block and then template from that.

   Maybe that's a couple ways but you shouldn't have that much prob.

   Doug

2. 
   PlaneWood | Oct 17, 2005 06:01am | #2

   Find something of the same radius to use as a marking guide, then round the corners with sandpaper wrapped around a block of wood.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

3. 
   philip | Oct 17, 2005 11:02am | #3

   Joe , I do a lot of that very thing, and have found that it is not worth getting "technical " about.I use this method for some table tops but more often for chest bottoms .I assume you are only doing one or a few.
   I have a selection of machinists washers (i.e they are in graduated diameters). When I have routed the rebate (rabbet) I use a matching washer to mark one corner of the panel to be inlaid. I usually cut the panel about one or two mm's oversize. I then shape the marked corner using my disc sander, then test fit to be sure the radius is correct and that the adjacent edges are corresponding (90* in theory). Then I will plane the width to an exact fit, and going clockwise, mark the next corner, shape and fit it. Then plane length to an exact fit and repeat the shaping of the remaining two corners.
   Your mdf appears to be a lot thicker than the usual 6 or 8mm ply that I use, so I suggest you first cut the corner using a band saw preferably, then disc sand exact to the line.
   I always get a perfect fit this way,
   Sorry-a very long -winded explanation.

   Philip Marcou

   
1. 
   forestgirl | Oct 18, 2005 09:59am | #8

   Philip, I love that table!!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   philip | Oct 18, 2005 10:09am | #9

   Thanks, Jamie. Do you know what it is? I ask this becauae here I find nobody knows, and I thought it a good thing to make since houses in New Zealand are generally a lot smaller and , well, kind of short of places to put things.....Alas, a non adventurous lot, so no takers.It is gathering dust, like its maker.Philip Marcou

1. 
   forestgirl | Oct 18, 2005 07:48pm | #11

   We call them a Butler's Table.  Back in the days when I had a used-furniture-and-antiques store, we had several requests for one.  I think I only found 2 in all the auctions and estate sales I went to over 7 or 8 years!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   philip | Oct 18, 2005 10:18pm | #12

   Jamie, I am suitably impressed! It is strange, to me , to find that Butler trays/tables are not known here-when they are very Englishified in many other ways.But I did find a German lady who has several pieces in this style here-she had them made in Hong Kong....
   There is at least one factory in England making this style, as far as I know.
   I used the Imbuia ply inlay to make it as light as possible. I am considering making a knock-down version-what do you think?Philip Marcou

2. 
   forestgirl | Oct 19, 2005 03:42am | #13

   "I am considering making a knock-down version-what do you think?"  Sounds fine to me!  This is the type of piece that would sell well on an established web site.  Not a ton of people looking for one, but the people who want one really want one!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   Ozzy | Oct 19, 2005 02:17pm | #16

   Very nice Butlers table, Philip.  I admire your work very much.  Do you get plenty of work, or is woodworking a well-developed 'hobby'?

   Ozzy

1. 
   philip | Oct 20, 2005 11:08am | #17

   I used to get plenty of work, but since emigrating here it is difficult to find anyone with any real interest in quality furniture, unfortunately.
   Thanks for your kind words.Philip Marcou

1. 
   Ozzy | Oct 20, 2005 02:52pm | #18

   That's a bloody shame, but I don't think itis either your products or yourself.  In these days of Ikea, people seem to equate the perceived 'quality' as being ok to use hardboard, staples and chipboard, and until they are educated, they will not have a fig of understanding about inlays, dovetail joints or craftsmanship.

   My advice would be to soldier on - cream has a habit of always rising to the top.

   Take care, mate, and stay in touch.

   Ozzy.

3. 
   h12721 | Oct 22, 2005 06:22pm | #19

   Hi Philip, what is the spot in the middle of the table?

    

   Funning back Hilmar

1. 
   philip | Oct 22, 2005 10:29pm | #20

   Hilmar-I presume you mean that brownish patch? Bad photography-must have been dust not wiped away...Philip Marcou

1. 
   WillGeorge | Oct 22, 2005 10:45pm | #21

   that brownish patch?No expert but I think it is a artifact from the lens focusing thingi' inside the camera.. Not sure but NOT the wood for sure!

1. 
   philip | Oct 22, 2005 11:20pm | #22

   Dangit Will, now you have me worried-do you mean there is something wrong with the camera?I have just cleaned the lense outer. Funny-I never noticed that patch-it's not on any other photos. Maybe Picasa did it (no, not Picasso!)?Philip Marcou

2. 
   h12721 | Oct 23, 2005 09:41pm | #23

   Or maybe a beer can sitting on the shellac.

   Hilmar

3. 
   philip | Oct 23, 2005 10:54pm | #24

   You know, I have tried to drink beer all my life-with no success!Philip Marcou

4. 
   WillGeorge | Oct 24, 2005 01:17am | #25

   do you mean there is something wrong with the camera?Well, Not sure but I'd get a new one!NA.. I think I saw something on the web about artifacts that show up when using a digital camera.. DANG! I can't find the link now..Mostly from the auto-focus sensor?? Not sure.. I'm old and forgets stuff.. Not a real problem but the link I cannot find showed different artifacts and why they happened and solutions for the problem...

   Edited 10/23/2005 6:19 pm by WillGeorge

5. 
   philip | Oct 24, 2005 11:58am | #26

   Thanks Will. If you happen to remebember where you saw the link I would be happy to see what it says. You are bound to remember it when you are not thinking too hard.....
   These digital camera are too smart for me.Philip Marcou

4. 
   Routerman | Oct 17, 2005 04:19pm | #4

   Sample of jus such a templet at the RAT link.

5. 
   Dave45 | Oct 17, 2005 04:43pm | #5

   If you know the diameter of the rabbetting bit you used, use a draftsmans circle template to draw the arcs on your panel, then cut and sand to the marks.

   Another option would be to square up the corners of your frame with some careful chisel work, then cut your panel with square corners.

6. 
   WillGeorge | Oct 18, 2005 01:38am | #6

   I need to make a MDFO template with rounded corners that match the radius of the rabbet's corners, perfectly ..

   If it were me and I needed to make a few or more I would get some MDF or good Ply and make it the size of the door.. Cut out the center to match you cutout with about 1/8 inch of wood left for trimming..

   Get a pattern bit and route away.. It will be exact if you have a good pattern bit...

1. 
   philip | Oct 18, 2005 09:46am | #7

   Will, I think you are putting the cart before the horse.Philip Marcou

1. 
   WillGeorge | Oct 19, 2005 12:57pm | #15

   You are right! I was thinkin' upsidedown...

7. 
   Ozzy | Oct 18, 2005 06:37pm | #10

   High, Joe.

   You will need to use a collar.  Basically, if you clamp another board onto the top of yours, and back from the edge, say 25mm (1 inch) on both edges, and then fit a collar that is 25mm (1 inch) greater radius than the cutter, you can follow the new (second) board around the corner, and get a radius edge on the corner.  The radius of this rounded corner will be 25mm (1 inch).  Sooooooooo - check the radius of the cutter you used to do the rebate, and work out from there where you need to be.

   I hope this makes sense, but if not come back to me and I will try to explain a little better.

   Good luck, and stay in touch.

   Ozzy

   PS I think that it would have been a little better if you squared-off the rebate corners with a very sharp chisel, and left the panel corners square - any small imperfections in the dimensions of the rails or stiles will make it very difficult to get a clean, round corner.

8. 
   Steinmetz | Oct 19, 2005 06:55am | #14

   Joe, Why not make a picture frame type 'surround' that fit's snugly around your door blank?
   The frame material should be wide enough to support a hand held router with a 6" base and be as thick as the door blank.
   At the proper distance along the outer edges of this 'surround' frame, (3")add lengths of flat rectangular strips which will serve as guides for the router. I use 1/2" x 3/4" parting strips for these as they are milled accurately.

   Screw the surround to the bench top, drop in the blank and run the router clockwise around the stops. DONE. Steinmetz.

   
   

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   Edited 10/19/2005 12:01 am ET by Steinmetz