Replies

1. 
   allenb | May 08, 2007 06:12am | #1

   I like your veneer idea.  The solid corners would need to be positioned right to get the grain effect you are going for.  It may actually look good to have a rift cut grain in the detail with the quarter sawn sides.  You better work up a sample.  The miter lock would work good but that detail could really be a problem if you cut into the joint lines.

   Good luck,

2. 
   nikkiwood | May 08, 2007 06:18am | #2

   I've never had much luck doing such legs with a plain mitre.

   Lock mitre takes some fussing, but once you have it set, and then make a set of guage blocks, the next set-up is very easy. If your legs are 4" square, you shouldn't need a jig -- but you should use stock that is 4-6" longer than your final leg length.

   Rather than use quadralinear legs, some one of the Stickley boys did use a piece of QS veneer (at least sometimes) to cover the two facades of the leg which don't show the flake (when using built up stock.

   What kind of detail are you going to use on the legs -- that makes you want to avoid the quadralinear?

   ********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

1. 
   studly | May 09, 2007 12:59am | #3

   I was asked to duplicate the detail on the church pews. I can't tell from a picture whether it is a small cove or a chamfer.

1. 
   nikkiwood | May 09, 2007 07:57am | #5

   Most likely it is a chamfer, but in any case, I think the lock mitre bit could easily accomodate a facade that is somewhere between 1/4" and 3/8".One of the virtues of the lock miter is that they are easy to glue up -- as long as you start with stock that is dead straight.********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

3. 
   jackplane | May 09, 2007 02:15am | #4

   veneer over form with solid corner works. you could also use ply with solid corners to obviate the veneering.

   Expert since 10 am.

4. 
   ring | May 09, 2007 04:07pm | #6

   In contrast to the other posters, I much prefer to glue up a plain miter. It is lightening fast using the "tape from the outside" method and the results are extremely strong. The only catch is that you MUST have a tablesaw that cuts perfect 45° rips. If the angle is cut correctly, it's hard to get it wrong.

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

5. 
   JohnWW | May 09, 2007 05:07pm | #7

   Glue up the legs with square butt joints, two 4" wide quarter sawn sides and two 2 1/2" wide sides, grain unimportant.  The 2 1/2" dimension is based on 3/4" thick stock. 

   Next, cover the two sides made with the 2 1/2" wide components with quarter sawn veneer.  You now have a 4" square blank leg with all quarter sawn sides and solid corners with no seams to show when you cut the chamfers.  Also you never had to make a miter joint.  This is the fastest and surest way to make the legs I can think of.

   John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine 

1. 
   studly | May 10, 2007 01:27am | #8

   Never thought of that, and the 2 1/2" side could be poplar to save some cash. Sometimes I think too hard. Thanks John

1. 
   JohnWW | May 10, 2007 03:19pm | #9

   Yes the veneered sides could be poplar or visually flawed oak that still has a straight grain. 

   Actually I got to thinking about this from your first post where you mentioned veneered sides with solid corners, so you can take the credit for the concept.

   John W.

6. 
   WillGeorge | May 11, 2007 10:21pm | #10

   MiterLock bit... "I never liked using it because the set up is so tedious."

   I agree they can be.... Well, frustrating (to use a nice words) but well worth the time to set up. They will make a 'perfect' joint that is ALSO EASY TO GLUE UP. If you have the bit..USE IT! You can get close with the settings with any wood for testing but I find you really need the 'actual wood to get it 'perfect' Just me and I have been wrong before!