I know I’ve seen the technique on TV — probably on New Yankee Workshop — but could someone reacquaint me with the hardware and techniques for making precisely fitted dutchmen?
Seems like one uses a router with a collar (size?) inside a template to rout out the unwanted material, and then a different bit (size?) and collar (size?) (or is it pilot bearing?) inside the same template to cut the dutchman, which is “sliced” from the stock on the table saw.
Replies
You can buy a kit that consists of a 1/8" up-spiral bit, a Porter-Cable size guide bushing, a collar that slips over the guide bushing and a butterfly template. The collar wall is equal to the thickness of the bit, 1/8".
You first set the router bit at about 1/4" and using the butterfly template over the area to be patched and with the collar attached totally clean out the area. Then remove the collar and make the dutchman in a piece of scrap using only the guide bushing. The dutchman can then be separated from the scrap piece by taking a 1/4" cut on the tablesaw or bandsaw.
I can't remember where I got mine but probably at Woodcraft or Highland. Works great!
From the Helderberg Mountains
Thanks!
>>> could someone reacquaint me with the hardware and techniques for making precisely fitted dutchmen?
Rick,
Only God can make dutchmen. LOL
What's dutchmen?
jdg
jdg, as I understand it there are two definitions of "dutchmen/man." The first is more generic, and refers to any kind of repair to an error, especially on the surface of a piece, e.g. filling in knots, gaps in joinery, etc.. The more specific definition often refers to the "butterfly" keys used to keep cracks in place or as decorative inlays.
David"The world that was not made is not won by what is done" -- Mundaka Upanishad
This is a butterfly key.
http://www.sover.net/~sgoodell/furniture/images/slabdetail.jpg
This page has (fairly bad) line drawings of several different kinds of dutchmen.
http://www.ilovewood.com/alburnam16.htm
I use these from time to time, but call them butterflies. Cutting them is the tricky part. I use the TS, with the blade tilted to a pleasant degree. Teak is my favorite wood to use as it is strong and tight. I usually make them in a strip, and then cut them to the needed length. Easier to handle the longer pieces on the TS, and nice to have them around for when needed.
As to the installation, I cut off a chunk, hold in in place, with or without clams depending, and then mark them with a knife. I use a 1/4" spiral bit in a router, freehand , to waste the mahority of the stock, and finish with a chisel to the line. Only takes a little time. Quite strong. I use them on both the top, if I think it would be appropriately decorative, or in the end, or bottom, just depending. I set them in epoxy, as it is gapfilling and quite strong, setting them high. Then trim off with a plane. Maybe if I had a bunch to do I would set up a pattern, but it doesn't take a lot of effort to set one by hand.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled