Hi All,
I wish to make a plane tote to retro-fit onto a Stanley No6 plane.
Looking at design of the tote, as the critical part is the angle between the bolt hole and the baseline, I was wondering if the hole is drilled first and then the tote located and shaped around this hole; or is the tote made first then aligned accurately in a drill press to put the holes for the hold-down bolts into the tote?
I would appreciate any advice/experience you have.
Thanks in advance,
eddie.
edit: grammar & spelling
Edited 12/22/2002 4:56:42 PM ET by eddie (aust)
Replies
Hi Eddie,
If you've got the original tote, or what's left of it, that will help you set out the bottom of the long bolt-hole - takes a bit of guesswork to lay out, because that recess to accomodate the nipple on the base that takes the screw-hole. The long bolt exits at or near the top of that recess. I find the best way for me, is to screw the bolt into the plane, sit it on the bench and sight the angle onto a bevel. You can then transfer that onto the side of your blank to use as a reference when you set it up in the drill-press. I did many by hand, too, but it's hard to keep everything going in the right direction! A drill press and vyce makes it all a lot easier.
The top recess for the brass nut is a bit of a mongrel size, but I think 7/16 is pretty close, from memory - it looks much more professional if the nut fits neatly, and flush with the top. Once you've got your blank drilled and fitting nicely, settle down for a couple of hours with rasp, scrapers and sandpaper, and voila! A finishing flourish I use is to polish the wood with jewellers rouge and a cloth wheel on the lathe (after sanding to about 400 grit). Rosewood and similar hard woods take a beautiful sheen.
You probably have your wood chosen, but if you aren't a strict traditionalist, we have some very nice stuff here in Oz. Forrest she-oak (Casuarina torulosa) is one of my favourites, and some of the hard Acacias like Mulga are excellent as well.
here's a pic of a rather battered old thing with She-oak tote and knob. Despite the rust pits on the side (and a few on the sole) it works well. I copied the knob and tote design from a very old Stanley - I find the large flat mushroom shape gives a very comfortable flat-palmed grip.
Cheers, Ian W.
Hi Ian and thanks for your reply,
I'm using an old bit of highly figured bluegum. One of my goals over the break is to finish this plane off and get it back into service.
Your work looks good too - She-Oak has come up really well.
Thanks also to others who responded off-line (lest you think I'm being rude).
Wishing you all the best for Xmas (12 hours away here)
eddie
Ian,
Thanks for your help. Have attached a photo of the tote.
Still needs a final coat of oil and a couple of dust specks removed, but this will only be a minor job.
eddie
Eddie - looks good - what about the knob? Is it bluegum or redgum? Just asking because my (limited) experience with the latter suggests it's a finer-grained wood which might have a better 'feel' after a year or two of use..
Cheers,
Ian W.
Thanks Ian,
Still the original front knob - beech.
Cheers, eddie
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled