Replies

1. 
   RickL | May 15, 2006 07:13pm | #1

   Whether someone has done it or not you will still have to do a mock up to try it. That would cost more than the hardware the customer didn't want to pay for. I wouldn't want that customer.

2. 
   John_D | May 15, 2006 09:06pm | #2

   It's not too hard to do tambour on the cheap.

   My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
1. 
   RickL | May 15, 2006 10:07pm | #3

   Pocket doors and tambour doors are entirely different things. You can buy premade tambour which would cheaper than making it. Rockler sells a bit for doing tambour and you use a cable to tie it together instead of canvas backing glued on.

1. 
   John_D | May 15, 2006 10:49pm | #6

   True, they're different, but they serve similar functions.  Very different appearance too!My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.

3. 
   JohnWW | May 15, 2006 10:22pm | #4

   8 inch by 8 inch, seems too tiny for pocket doors, 8 foot by 8 foot seems huge.  What are your units of measure?

   John White

4. 
   thewoodbutcher | May 15, 2006 10:48pm | #5

   no 8"x8" is the size and there are about 12 of them. I have seen this done before but never took notice on how it was done. In my latest trial I made an 8x8 box routed a 5/16" groove top and bottom (of inside) stopping 3/8 from the edge(center of door) drilled 3/8" hole at the front of the top slot so I could lift it up and set the bottom dowel into the lower groove. still tomuch play ...any thoughts

1. 
   JohnWW | May 15, 2006 11:10pm | #7

   So are these a single door, or a pair of doors, that you swing open and then slide into the side or top of the box until only the door's edge is visible?

   John W.

1. 
   thewoodbutcher | May 16, 2006 12:56am | #8

   single door that opens to the side

1. 
   JohnWW | May 16, 2006 01:30am | #9

   The way I've seen this done is a rectangular block, with tongues on the top and bottom edges, is made to slide in the grooves that run down the side of the cabinet.  The block, if well fitted, should fit snugly in the grooves without rocking but still slide smoothly. 

   For an eight inch high opening, the block would need to be at least 4 inches or so deep to keep it from cocking and thus jamming in the grooves.  The door is then hinged off of the front edge of the sliding block.  The hingeing would be a bit tricky, but a knife hinge would work to keep the door in line with the block when the door is open, but would be unobtrusive when the door is closed.  Once the door is opened, the door and block would then be slid back into the cabinet.  The door and block together would be 12 inches wide so you shelf would have to be that deep to be able to push the door all the way in.  Splitting the door in two would allow you to set this up on a shallower shelf.

   John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine

1. 
   thewoodbutcher | May 16, 2006 02:01am | #10

   thanks John! I can picture that perfectly. By brother has a armoir that has the pinned doors that I was trying to do, but it is in S.F. This seems to be a bit more stable and reliable. Thanks for all the input!