Making raised panel doors with arch top
Greetings all…
I am currently gearing up to make my own kitchen cabinets. The upper cabinet design has an Ogee panel with an arched top. Everything I’ve read has told me to use a starting pin and the bearing on the panel raising bit to shape the arched section. My problem is my panel bit does not have a bearing between the ogee profile and the back cutter. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to use this bit to shape the tops of my panels? The bit is a Freud Ogee panel raising bit.
Tim
Replies
I see you haven't had any replies yet, woodworker 79. I think know the bit you are talking about. It has a back cutter that is spaced above the raising cutter. If you remove the back cutter, there is a neck that is left, before you could place a bearing. I'd have to say, that the best solution would be to get another bit without the back cutter. However, there are some things I don't know about that bit.
When you use it for square panels, is there a bearing or do you depend on the fence for your depth? If you removed the back cutter, will a bearing slip down over the neck that the back cutter fits over? If it will, then I would just leave the back cutter off and shape the back afterwards with another bit. I don't know what size the neck is and if you could find a bearing that would fit properly. You couldn't use the neck as a rub collar because the carbide doesn't go in that deep. It's possible that you could make a rub collar out of nylon but if it failed, you could ruin your work and maybe hurt yourself. I might be foolish enough to give it a try, put a little Slipease on the nylon and take real small bites. It would probably be smarter to just buy another bit with a bearing though. After all, you have a whole kitchen to do and arches are hard enough without worrying about a bit eating one up. I don't suppose you have an overarm router, do you?
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I would buy a new raised panel bit - one with a bearing. MLCS (http://www.mlcswoodworking.com) has a good selection.
I suppose that you could let the edge ride against the shaft of your bit (where the bearing should be). You would get some burn marks but they will be on the edge that gets hidden in the rails and stiles.
Try pulling off the backcutter and installing a bearing instead. I would not try using the shaft as a rub collar. It likely would cause burning, but that is not the real problem. The real problem is that the profile would be screwed up. You would end up with a tongue about 1/4" too long. If installing a bearing works you can make the back with a bit made for the purpose, or a cove bit with a " flat top" (I forget what they are called but they are cheep and can be bought at any big box. I believe that there is no way to make a curved panel without a bearing on the bit.
Mike
Thanks everyone for the advice. I think you've confirmed that there is no easy solution to this problem except buying a new bit. I'm a little annoyed that I will probably have to do that. The freud bit (which I thought would be a good bit, but now I'm not too happy with it) does not look like it will fit a bearing. I will look to see if I can find something that will work, but I'm not holding out much hope. My other option was to use the shaft to ride against, but I think that is a little too risking. Spinning this bit isn't my favorite thing to do anyway....
There are a lot of different sizes of bearings out there. I bet if you call or send Freud an Email they will tell you defenifitively what to do.
Mike
Can't you just cut an arch out of a guide board? That's what I did for mine. Clamped it down and ran the panel. Cut a slot for the back of the bit to clear the guide board.
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