Making shaker boxes, having trouble tacking ends
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Hello,
I am making oval shaker boxes following the instructional articles and videos on this site. I am using pine, around 2mm thick. My problem is when I try to tack the ends on the bands. The copper tacks sit vertical on the pilot holes, but when I hammer them, they always fall over, not cinch properly, and worse, ruin the wood… What could be the problem?
Thanks!
Replies
What are you clinching the tacks on? I'm guessing a pipe? If you aren't tapping the tacks straight down onto the very top of the pipe, it will bend to the side.
The tacks need to be the right length in relation to the thickness of the box side. Thicker sides need longer tacks, and vice versa. The tack needs to be just long enough to clinch, but if they are overly long they will split your parts.
You are using copper tacks, right?
And last, your problem might include the pine. I've never made box sides from pine, and neither did the Shakers. Their box sides were almost all maple, and modern makers use mostly cherry. I'm not really sure how pine sides would behave.
Hello, yes copper tacks on a pipe. I think the copper tacks are just about the right length. I was afraid it would be the pine too. Could it be that it's too soft that it gives before the copper tacks do? I'm using the pine as it's the most readily available for me...
I really don't know how pine would behave. Shakers had it in plenty, and the tops and bottoms were always Eastern white pine, and almost always quartersawn. But most sides were maple, with a sprinkling of a bunch of different hardwoods.
Try maple or cherry and see if it fixes your problem. Walnut makes great box sides too.
Are you using copper tacks that are designed for Shaker box making?
The generic copper tacks sold at hardware stores are for carpet and upholstery.
Mike
Hi! I just got "copper tacks", would there be a difference if it's specifically for shaker boxes or carpet, if they are both copper?
This is what I have...
The tacks are the problem. Copper tacks for Shaker boxes are much thinner and more delicate allowing the tips to bend and clinch.
I get my copper tacks from shakerovalbox dot com. If you go to that website you will find free articles on making oval boxes as well as all the supplies offered for sale - including the copper tacks.
I believe Lee Valley sells the tacks as well.
Shaker copper tacks are sold in different sizes depending on the thickness of the wood you intend to join. The free how-to articles on that website will guide you in selecting the right ones.
Mike
Oh, good lord, you can't make shaker boxes with those "tacks." No no no no no.
Go to John Wilson's site, mentioned above. Get some tacks. You can buy thicknesses parts for sides or tops, as well as patterns, and much much more.
There are a plethora of different size tacks. Get the proper size for the specific box you want to make.
Maybe predrill?
I always predrill just the fingers. It didn't even occur to me that someone wouldn't. Good catch.
Yes, predrilled the fingers. I tried on scrap wood predrilling both top and bottom, they clinched properly. Not sure if it would be feasible drilling top and bottom on a bended band...
I have made quite a few shaker boxes and have taught several classes.
Three keys to a successful tack- Use John Wilson's copper tacks of the correct length, push the tack through two thicknesses, feel the pipe anvil and have the tack vertical, use very light taps to start the clinching. Slowly increase the tapping strength. You can whack it good to finish the clinch. Shaker boxes are fun, good luck
I'll try to push it through both ends, instead of just the top and hammering through the bottom. Thanks!
I tried again, and comparing how strong I have to hammer vs the ones I've seen in the videos, I think I don't have copper nails haha. They seem to be too stiff.
Those look to be brass or plated steel tacks. Get the tacks from John.
Mike, John, Vespid, got it! I'm not in the US, and these are the only "copper" tacks I could find without sourcing from halfway around the world. Looks like I need to do so anyway hehe. Thank you!!
Oh, sorry. I know Lee Valley carries tacks they get from John Wilson. I have no idea if you can get them anywhere else.
These kinds of cut tacks were once common around the world. Maybe somewhere they still make them. John Wilson bought two tacking making machines when the last big manufacturer here went out of business and everything was being scrapped. There are videos somewhere of him demonstrating the 150 year old machines making tacks. Fun to watch.
You're wood is 2mm thick so the joint is 4mm thick. That is quite thick as Shaker boxes go and requires one of the larger size tacks - a number 3.
I am attaching some photos with measurements of a Number 3 Shaker tack so you can try to find something locally.
The shank of the number 3 tack is 1.7mm in diameter and the length of the tack (including the head) is just under 9mm.
Hope this helps,
Mike
Those are definitely not brass just plated steel. You may be able to find steel cut tacks, especially if you have some upholster shops around. They work fine for shaker boxes and I have seen plenty of antiques with steel tacks. Not as pretty as copper but they do work.
Late Shaker production used iron tacks, as that's all they could get. But they need to clinch -- if the steel is too hard they won't bend properly.
Just got my package today. I was definitely using the wrong tacks. I can bend the tips of these tacks against the floor using my fingers! haha
Those are the real deal. And John Wilson is great to deal with.
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