Replies

1. 
   shedhappens | Mar 27, 2005 01:03am | #1

   within the last couple of years there was an article in either "fine homebuilding" or fine woodworking on that very subject.  you might try checking back issues.  no, wait, that was on wrapping a newel post.  either way, it might help.

2. 
   UncleDunc | Mar 27, 2005 07:42am | #2

   Click on the Advanced Search button near the top of the index frame on your left, and enter "tapered columns", without the quotes, in the text box. When I did it just now, I got 7 messages. Then go to Breaktime, second button in the second row of buttons above, and repeat the same search. I found 38 messages there.

   You most assuredly can cut the sides in one step on a table saw. Here's a link to a compound miter calculator in case none of the search results reference one.

   http://www.woodworkersguildofga.org/ShopHelpers/MiterCalculator.htm

   
   

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   Edited 3/27/2005 12:43 am ET by Uncle Dunc

3. 
   hammer1 | Mar 27, 2005 08:34am | #3

   You can use a taper jig with your saw blade set to 45° if you want mitered edges. Biscuits, splines or nails could be used. You could also leave the edges square and figure two of the sides to be smaller in width to account for the overlap. You could also taper them and use a lock miter bit on the router table to join them. As you said, you could cut the 45 with a chamfer bit too. Many of the older ones I have seen are butt jointed, without miters and nailed. They are often paneled, with stiles of equal width and graduated rails, angled on the ends. Sometimes they are just decorative, not structural.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

4. 
   mike4244 | Mar 27, 2005 12:29pm | #4

   I have made a lot of columns and pilasters, never had the opportunity to make tapered columns. Here is how I would go about it. First I would cut the taper with a handheld circular saw and a straightedge, 1/16" over size. Clean up the edges on a jointer.I do not miter the corners, I rabbet them instead. If I am using 3/4" stock, the rabbet would be 3/4" wide by 9/16" deep. This leaves you with 3/16" overlap that when sanded appears to be a solid column, instead of four boards glued together.

   The main reason I do not miter is it is difficult to get a perfect miter on longer stock. The stock has to be perfectly straight, even the slightest  bow will result in an imperfect miter.

   When I glue up the sides I make the rabbeted edge stand proud a 1/64" or so,then sand it off after the glue dries.The 9/16" deep dado should be a tad deeper for this.If your column will be painted then brad nail the rabbet edge to the full boards. If they are stain grade I only nail at the top and bottom where it will be covered by a base or capitol.For painted work I use pva glue.For stain grade I use hot hide glue and cauls. Hot hide glue sets up fast, for five long columns three clamps on each side will suffice. The cauls should be temparily fastened to the sides so you do not have to fumble around holding a caul and clamp at the same time.I usually screw the cauls at the top and bottom where they do not show. Cauls are 2x3's that are bandsawed with a fair arc. The middle of the caul is 2 1/2", the top and bottom are 2 1/8". When the top and bottom are clamped the middle clamp may not be necessary, I use a middle clamp anyhow, mostly because that's the way I was taught.

   mike

1. 
   woodguy | Mar 27, 2005 06:45pm | #6

   As usual I have made myself think this is more difficult then it really is. Thank you to all who weighed in on my question. Mike, I believe has the right idea. Rather than miter the edges with all the problems that involves, I think his idea to use rabbets to join the lengths is a great idea. Thank you all, I have used this forum before and don't know how I got along without it. Thanks again. John

5. 
   murrayF | Mar 27, 2005 05:29pm | #5

   Just something for you to check-out Lee Valley has a series of "bird's mouth" bits for your router that are specifically made for making columns in 6,8,12,or 16 sections. Have fun!!

   
   

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   Edited 3/27/2005 10:31 am ET by dic

6. 
   notDusty | Mar 27, 2005 07:02pm | #7

           woodguy ,

                    The method you use may depend on if you are using solid stock or plywood . One way that worked out great for me was to first cut the tapers on the tS and then cut the miters , I used 5/8" siding ply that matched the house then painted them to match the trim , I glued and pinned them in the shop and fastened the last side in place . The finest builder finish guy I know sets his skill saw on a 45 them cuts the taper and miter at the same time . So whatever look you want and your comfort level with the equipment you have . The size is very important for balance , don't make the dimensions too small they may look dwarfed to the scale of the setting .

                good  luck             dusty