Making the cove section of a molding
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I am making the waist molding for a chest and it has a 1/4 round on each end of the 1 1/2″ side of a 1 1/2″ h x 2″ w molding with a cove in between.
I can not cut the cove with any of my cove router bits, even with the bearing off, it can get deep enough to form the cove.
I do not have a molding cutter for the table saw, which is probably a reasonable option, but even the one I saw at sears did not have a cove that looked like it would do the trick.
I thought of making a plane but would only invest the time required if I can not come up with faster another option. (You see I’m on weekend 8 of a 4 weekend project 🙂
The best two ideas I have have at this point are: a) cut a rabbit into the face side that goes as deep as the middle of the cove at the center (this also gives clearance for the 1/4″ round-overs on each end) and then use hand tools & scrapers to create the rest of the cove, or b) use the cove bit to get as far as possible then finish up with hand tools. Problem is, I have a fair bit of molding and that would take a lot of time.
Any more ideas?
Replies
You should be able to cut that on a tablesaw. It isn't terribly difficult. Search on "cutting cove" and a few articles should turn up. There is also an online program that will tell you the proper blade angel, etc. If you don't have a membership, you can sign up for the 14 day trial membership.
Rockler also sells a cove cutting jig for the Tsaw. I think it needs a full size saw to have enough room to mount.Webby
Good idea, I'll look at that option again; I had initially ruled out because the size (width and depth) was not achievable with a 10" TS blade.
Edited 10/10/2008 7:59 pm ET by jeffreysherow
I didn't look at your dimensions too closely, but they didn't seem all that big to me. If I follow your description, a 10 in. TS can handle it. Of course, I might not be reading your first post right. The particular article to look at is "Cutting Coves on the Tablesaw" by Stuart Sabol. It shows you a shop made version of the jig sold by Rockler. Just my personal preference, but I would not buy a jig for something like this. It can be made quite easily. The online program is also by Sabol.Good luck.This is my personal signature.
Jeffery,
The following link has some information on making these types of molding with a mix of hand and power tools.
http://americanfederalperiod.com/chest%20on%20frame%204.html
Rob Millard
Thank you. The segment was very helpful and the piece is beautiful, I really love that style.
I just wanted to let you know I just spent about the last 1/2 hour or so looking at the pieces on your site and just wanted to say wow! Your site is bookmarked and I can't wait to see the plans. Maybe I'll get a chance soon to attend one of your classes -- it really has been way too long since I have been to Ohio.
Jeffery,
Thanks.
I hope you can make it out here sometime.
Rob Millard
If you post a drawing of the profile you want it would help.
From what I can determine you are close, but the bearing post gets in the way? If so, can you simply grind off the bearing post to get the extra depth?
I'm thinking what you need to do won't require hours of sanding out table saw tooth marks, but is simply a matter of the correct router bit and jig.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
I have used core box bits to solve the problem I think that the OP has.
That's what I was thinking. Rockler or others also have top cutting router bits for crown and other such things needing a gently curved concave cut.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
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