Replies

1. 
   BenM | Jun 03, 2003 08:03pm | #1

   FWW, Issue 120 (Sept 1996).

1. 
   jjhamer | Jun 03, 2003 11:23pm | #2

   Thank you, thats it!  I didn't go far enough back...

2. 
   jjhamer | Jun 05, 2003 03:39am | #3

   Here is the first try at handmade tool handles.  Turned a 1-1/2" 1-1/2" piece of oak. 

   Drilled a 7/64" hole in the end and fit the mini file into the hole.  The fit is very tight without glue, but I'll use epoxy to make a better connection.

   The hole ended up off center and the file is not in line with the center line of the handle, but it feels pretty good in my hand.  I need a way to get the hole centered and in line.

   This is alot better than using the file without a handle like I've been doing for years. 

   (See the attached files.)

   
1. 
   Steinmetz | Jun 05, 2003 04:48am | #4

   Unisaw,  For starters, drill the hole first, Then screw on to a faceplate or a headless wood screw chucked to the spindle.

   Find and mark the approximate center for the other end, (This will be the 'waste' end, so plan to cut this off to finish size when done) and centerdrill it. 

   Place it in the lathe and put a drop of sewing machine oil on the 'Dead' center.Turn with a good sharp gouge, then sand,then cut the waste off almost to the center.  

    If I make an exceptionally good looking handle,I copy it for future use.  I just slice it in half (Lengthwise) to get a silhouette of the design.

    By tracing it's outline on a folded piece of paper board,and cutting along the outline, when you unfold it,you get both a complete replica plus a sample to use to 'guage' a whole bunch of them. Stein. 

   Somewhere in a woodworking magazine I found a source for the brass 'Ferrules" to fit on the fore ends. Or, you can buy copper tubing 'End caps' and drill out the required hole.  G'luck Mate!

   Edited 6/4/2003 10:01:08 PM ET by steinmetz

   Edited 6/4/2003 10:05:20 PM ET by steinmetz

1. 
   handtoolguy | Jun 06, 2003 07:05am | #7

   Lee Valley has the ferrules.

1. 
   Steinmetz | Jun 06, 2003 09:39pm | #8

   Thanx, I'll relay this to Unisaw.   Stein

2. 
   Len | Jun 05, 2003 06:09am | #5

   Unisaw,

   Nice job. In issue 5 of Shop Notes they did a great article on tool handles. They have some drawings of handles but the really neat thing is how they make the ferrules from large brass nuts. I've done it and it really works well. They use a grinder to knock the corners off the nut but I'm fortunate enough to have a metal lathe.

   I turn my handles on a old Dremel lathe. It's old but does the job.

   Enjoy,

   Len

1. 
   jjhamer | Jun 10, 2003 02:57am | #21

   Len,

   Just got the #5 issue of shop notes.  Thanks for the info, I'll try several of the ideas from the article when I get time.   JJ

3. 
   Clay | Jun 06, 2003 06:47am | #6

   I used to make pretty handles like those but now I just take a scrap of hardwood and cut to length (and wiidth if neccessary) and then shape it up VERY quickly with a 40 to 60 grit sanding disc in my 4 1/2" grinder.  I leave the sander marks on it and that gives me a great grip.  I can make one up in about two to five minutes.  They are not beautiful unless you really like functional stuff (fortunately I do).  It is a much better solution than using a bunch of files with the tangs jabbing you in the palm or with one of those cheap plastic handles that the Mfrs. sometimes furnish.  I don't want to discourage your beautiful efforts, just thought that there might be some readers here who need some handles and don't have the time to turn fancy ones.

4. 
   jjhamer | Jun 07, 2003 03:42am | #9

   Here's a second attempt.

   1.5" x 1.5" by about 6" pine block.  I squared both ends and drilled the hole 1st per the previous post.    Thanks for the information everybody.  

   These files are small so I don't need the ferrules.   When I get to it, I will try making handlesfor bigger files/chisels.  I have several older chisels that need handles.

   The fit of the file is not a good as oak, so I epoxied the file into the handle.

   Cutting, turning and sanding took about 15 minutes, including photos. Takes more time to process the picturesand post than it does to make the handles.

   
1. 
   SCFrankland | Jun 07, 2003 04:15am | #10

   I like your oak handle.  I turn all my handles on the lathe testing the feel with my hand until I have it just right.  No two handles are the same as each tool gets used in a different manor.Scott C. Frankland

   "This all could have been prevented if there parents had just used birth control"

2. 
   Steinmetz | Jun 07, 2003 05:26am | #11

   I love it.  Next use black walnut. I turned plenty for chisels and they looked marvelous 

    If you want to speed the work up, recut your square blanks to octagons on the table saw. (The better to avoid chunks of 'tear out') .

   If you start with round stock,  (Broom handles come to mind), there's a plastic gadget at wood workers stores that will locate the exact centers for rounds AND squares.  

    If you're making multiples of the same size,  locate and mark and centerdrill each blank beforehand. Using a wood or plastic mallet, drive the 'Spur'  center into each blank to 'Impress' the wood.for a nice 'grip.

   (It's a no-no to Hammer the blank into the spur whilst in the spindle)

   Also, it's a good idea to mark the spur center near one tooth and also mark it's indent too on the work.

   This way, if you have to remove the handle before it's finished, by putting it back in the SAME indents,it assures great accuracy.  Stein.

   Edited 6/6/2003 10:29:01 PM ET by steinmetz

1. 
   jjhamer | Jun 07, 2003 10:36pm | #12

   Stein, thanks for the info.

    

   Here’s a third try with a larger file and ferrule.

    

   Wood is pine; I’ll try walnut or maple next.

    

   Turned a bigger diameter handle for larger hands.   The Ferrule is ¾” copper plumbers pipe cut with a pipe cutter (not a hacksaw). Had to take the turning off to get the ferrule on, so marking the spur center per your advice was helpful.  The ferrule is necessary because the pine is so soft.

    

   Sanded with 100 grit sandpaper.  Shaped the hole square with a 1/4” chisel and small files.  (See above posts) 

    

   Time: 30 minutes to make, 30 minutes to photograph and post.

    

   This file is a ½ round bastard used to cope crown molding, I’ll let you know how the handle holds up after some time.    Thanks for the help,  J.J.

    

   Edited 6/7/2003 3:45:57 PM ET by Unisaw

   
1. 
   Steinmetz | Jun 07, 2003 11:23pm | #13

   Terrific pics Uni,  As for all that chiseling,you might try another tack. For tapered holes, (such as for file 'tangs" bore the hole under sized, then using an old file with a similar tang, heat it's tang over the 'Barby' and repeatedly burn it on. Stop when almost 'bottomed, then using a mallet, smack it onto the good file. Stein.

5. 
   IanC | Jun 08, 2003 12:27am | #14

   Unisaw, Several years ago I read this method of attaching handles to files.  Put the file in a vise and heat the tang red hot with torch.  Quickly drive the pre-drilled handle onto the tang and let cool.  Well I tried it and ended up putting handles on all my rasps and files. It was so much fun, I was looking for things to put handles on.   They've show no signs of loosening in 20 or so years.  They were all turned walnut, pine may not work as well. 

   Ian

1. 
   Steinmetz | Jun 08, 2003 02:26pm | #15

   AMEN, Ian,( My grandson's name is Ian too.)   The reason I suggested using an old file is because although the new tang is semi-hardened, heating it and letting it cool slowly,will soften it and lead to bending.

   I'm glad you prefer to use fine wood even for a lowly file.. I make my own handles for knives/turning tools/even gavels using walnut.

   Next, I'll show unisaw how to make handles for socket chisels. ala Stanley.  Stein.  Also, epoxy is too permanent and not neccesary.

   Edited 6/8/2003 7:29:02 AM ET by steinmetz

1. 
   jjhamer | Jun 08, 2003 09:29pm | #16

   I'll have to try heating up the tang on the next one.

   Here's the progression so far...

   1.   File as used for 10 + years.  Hard on palm of hand!

   2.  Multi-purpose handle that doesn't quite fix right - will not screw on any further.

   3.  Plastic handle from manufacturer.  Needs to be bigger diameter, and, well its plastic.

   4.  Custom made, Nice size for my hand, good fit to file, and good balance.View Image

   Edited 6/8/2003 3:44:08 PM ET by Unisaw

   
3. 
   SCFrankland | Jun 09, 2003 01:38am | #17

   Here is a new handle I made for my framing chisel.  The handel is purpleheart and finished with oil.

   Scott C. Frankland

   "This all could have been prevented if there parents had just used birth control"

   
1. 
   jjhamer | Jun 09, 2003 02:24am | #18

   Scott, Looks good.  

   How well does the connection between the chisel and the wood handle hold up?

1. 
   SCFrankland | Jun 09, 2003 03:32am | #19

   Very well so far I have attached the old handle so you can see the taper.  You can also see why I turned a new one.  My dad use it to cut fiberglass in his boat.  He also used a steel hammer and split it all to pieces.  Next time I will hide it when he comes over.Scott C. Frankland

   "This all could have been prevented if there parents had just used birth control"

1. 
   SCFrankland | Jun 09, 2003 03:35am | #20

   Sorry forgot to attach the picture.Scott C. Frankland

   "This all could have been prevented if there parents had just used birth control"

   
2. 
   Steinmetz | Jun 10, 2003 04:29am | #22

   UNISAW, Sorry about jumping into your thread, but I see you are interested in socket chisel handles.

   Over the years, I've refurbished,polished,sharpened,made new handles and sold scads of good Stanley/Buck.Witherby/Swan (you name it)chisels.

   Since each manufacturer used slightly different tapers for their brand, I kept some old 'stubs'to use to copy their tapers on handles I've turned.

   Since I turned most handles on a metal cutting lathe,turning accurate tapers was a 'Snap'

   Once ,a friend gave me some turned spindles from his daughter's old crib. By slicing up those rock maple turnings into same sized blanks. I managed to turn the tapers and radius the opposite ends to compliment the existing bulb- like turnings

   Needless to say, I sold all those (40).chisels to a dealer in antique tools. I hope somewhere they have found happy homes?

   On a wood lathe, place the taper- to- be at the rear (Dead) center.

   (That is so you can fine tune the taper after the initial hand turning.)

   A trick I used to copy the old taper in the socket goes like this:

   Place any old short piece of hard wood directly into the chuck, Without using the dead center, with a gouge, turn an approximate 'test' taper on the end.

    Stop the lathe. Try the chisel on the taper. Of course it won't fit, BUT, using a soft graphite pencil, coat the inside of the socket with pencil lead.

   Try again by twisting and pushing. That will leave .telltale' marks,which indicate highspots to be lightly sanded (Wrap ,or glue a piece of garnet paper over a wood paint stirrer stick) to just remove the high spots (with the lathe running of course.)

   Again, with the pencil  repeat the procedure untill It shows all black. It will fit now. Take care so the chisel doesn't 'bottom ' in the socket. If so, cut off a 16th and try anew.  You are feeling proud aren't you?

   To make the 'Real handle,turn as usual with the taper centered to the right(There will be no cutoff)

    After  turning to resemble the test piece, remove the handle and test for high spots as before. Always return to the same point on the spur center.  Much luck Guy. Stein 

    Another trick to compare tapers is to guage the result of placing the test piece in your left hand with taper extending to the right and the taper-to-be in the right hand with taper to be to the left.

    Piggy back their tapers one above the other and if they maintain a straight horozontal line ,You're in business,   Stein

   Edited 6/9/2003 9:45:42 PM ET by steinmetz

   Edited 6/9/2003 9:47:56 PM ET by steinmetz

1. 
   jjhamer | Jun 11, 2003 12:13am | #23

   Stein thanks for the info.  I'm installing a whole house fan at the moment, so I have not had time to do any more handles.  I've got some good ideas from everybody's posts, and I will do some more work in a week or so.  JJ