Replies

1. 
   Mike_Maines | Apr 10, 2001 03:13am | #1

   *
   Bob, if you do a search on "gluing up panels" you should find lots of information, as this has been discussed here before...

   You may also want to get a book on woodworking, I like Tage Frid's, others here like Ernest Joyce.

   Mike

1. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Apr 10, 2001 05:10pm | #2

   *Bob,Am I correct is assuming that you meant 1" x 1' x 8'?As a matter of course when making panels I never go wider than 2 1/2" for the stock to eliminate cupping, joint the edges, and glue them up using cauls and bar clamps, alternating the growth rings (up, down). The cauls should have a slight radius, about 1/16" from crown to ends. I use wax paper between the piece(s) and the cauls, others use paste wax. I will clamp the cauls first then the bar clamps using uniform pressure then tighten down the cauls. To handle the squeeze out I let the glue skim over then use a plastic putty knife to "peel" the excess off.After the glue has dried I remove any remaining glue with a paring chisel, bezel down. I use a #3 or #4 smoothing plane on both surfaces then cut down to finish dimensions, and raise the panels. I use a #80 cabinet scraper and/or a card scraper on the field and card scraper on the end grain.FWIW, I would highly recommend getting a copy of "The Encyclopedia of Furniture Making" by Ernest Joyce, ISBN 0-87749-068-6, I understand that it still is in print.Dano

1. 
   Rob_Millard | Apr 12, 2001 03:05pm | #3

   *I would use as wide of boards as possible, for appearance sake. Panels made from many glued together boards invariable look poor. While I will admit a panel made from narrow boards will be more stable, there are other ways to achieve this, such as well dried stock, sealing both sides and interlocking joinery. You could for instance make one shelf in the center of your armoire, with a sliding dovetail, which will resist the sides cupping, in the long unsupported are between the top and bottom. Also, I would pay more attention to the grain direction and the appearance when gluing up the panel, than to the direction of the growth rings. I do not have access to a wide surface planer or wide sander, so I use hand planes to surface all my work. Having the grain run all in the same direction is important when using cutting tool, such as hand planes and surface planers, but is not important when using an abrasive planer.

1. 
   Rob_Millard | Apr 12, 2001 06:02pm | #4

   *I posted the text of my message without checking the spelling. I am the world’s least capable speller. Please overlook the errors. Rob

1. 
   Anatole_Burkin | Apr 12, 2001 08:08pm | #5

   *Bob:Use the wide boards you have. Joint and plane them flat, then glue them into panels. At this stage I will take large panels to a cabinet shop that has a wide belt sander and pay by the hour. Last, and this, I've found is critical: assemble and glue your case up ASAP, because these big panels will want to move. And, like Rob, I also usually incorporate a sliding dovetail shelf in the center region of a solid-sided armoire, which will help keep the side panels flat.--Anatole

2. 
   Dan_Kornfeld | May 26, 2001 02:53am | #6

   *Bob,I agree with Dan forth J. regarding the alternating of the growth rings. You will save yourself from untold headaches down the line if you set up the proper layout before gluing. I do a lot of glue up work with maple boards of varying width and thickness. Because I do a majority of the edge jointing and face planing with hand planes and card scrapers, I am very conscious of the way the grain runs from end to end. If the growth rings are being alternated but the grain of each board side by side is running in opposite directions, you'll have tear-out or raised grain every time you cross onto the joining board. If you watch the growth rings and the grain pattern now, you'll have a better finished product later.