Replies

1. 
   Handrubbed | Dec 01, 2005 10:58pm | #1

   Those aren't sticks, they're timbers!  My set are mahogany with maple on one edge for contrast.  They are much lighter made than yours.  You certainly don't need to go to 6/4 to get stability in white oak.  Are you working outdoors where wind might be a factor?

1. 
   spitfire | Dec 02, 2005 09:54pm | #5

   I could not help but chuckle here, yup I agree his winding sicks are indeed timbers and gee whiz is his shop in a tonado zone :-)

   I have rather small set of winding sticks I made whcih are stable and as flat and square as I could get them.  They are only 16 " long about 5/8 ths wide etc.  they work fine n dandy

    

    

    

2. 
   Napie | Dec 01, 2005 11:46pm | #2

   Mine are only 3/8"x1 1/4, one set 18" long, second set 36", walnut and maple.  I also bevel the edge to make the line thinner.  I check them once a year or so for straightness.

3. 
   sailalex | Dec 02, 2005 05:23pm | #3

   You might check out FWW  several months back; there was an article on making winding sticks near the back of the issue, but sorry, I don't remember the issue.

1. 
   stuartt | Dec 02, 2005 07:17pm | #4

   It is issue 177 from June 2005 page 91.All the bestStuart

4. 
   FJeff | Dec 03, 2005 05:19am | #6

   Why not just use a couple of peices of aluminum angle iron?

1. 
   DJK | Dec 04, 2005 12:23am | #7

   Will steel angle work or must it be aluminum? Where did you find aluminum angle iron, never herd of it? I thought it was either iron or aluminum angle. Sounds like something cool.DJK

1. 
   FJeff | Dec 04, 2005 02:02am | #9

   :DGood catch.Will we still call it a plane iron when it's made of plastic?

2. 
   tinkerer2 | Dec 04, 2005 05:58am | #10

        You should see how wrinkle free my wife gets my clothes when she aluminums them

1. 
   DJK | Dec 04, 2005 08:14am | #11

   At least your wife uses aluminum. After I iron my own, I must apply WD40 or Bioshield as a rust preventative.DJK

3. 
   Routerman | Dec 05, 2005 02:04am | #12

   Steel or aluminum, either ok.

   Sample at the straight edge link, (8 & 12")

    

   Edited 12/4/2005 6:05 pm ET by Routerman

1. 
   biscuitjoinERic | Dec 09, 2005 07:06pm | #13

   Do you recommend getting two 8” or one of each (8” & 12”) or does it matter?

1. 
   Routerman | Dec 10, 2005 12:35am | #15

   Does not matter, test if in doubt.

   8" of anything is a lot to sight broad-ways.

5. 
   sapwood | Dec 04, 2005 01:46am | #8

   I use any two straight chunks of wood that happen to be near me when I need to check winding. They don't have to be the same dimensions at all. Don't belabor the point.

6. 
   mudman | Dec 09, 2005 08:18pm | #14

   On my set I sealed them with a white pigminted shellac primer (Zinzer BIN). This added protection from humidity swings. I then masked off graduated horizontal lines which I painted black. I based mine on the metric system because .oo1 is a lot easier than 1/128". I am working on a set made from granite and I will add a lazer sighting system to speed set up time. However on the Discovery chanel I saw this new GPS type system that brain surgeons use to increase accuracy in their operations. It is accurate to a micrometer, and should be easy to add to a winding stick. I hope to find one of these surgical instrument positioning devices on Ebay, but they are hard to come buy so I'll likely have to make my own.

   Heh heh, Just kidding. Like someone else said I use what ever is laying around, preferably freshly ripped MDF.

   Mike

1. 
   Scrit | Dec 11, 2005 01:20am | #16

   "I am working on a set made from granite and I will add a lazer sighting system to speed set up time."

   Hey, does Rob Lee know about that? ;-)

   Scrit

1. 
   mudman | Dec 12, 2005 08:05pm | #17

   Who?

   Mike

1. 
   Scrit | Dec 12, 2005 08:51pm | #18

   As in Lee Valley, Veritas, etc. ;-)

1. 
   mudman | Dec 15, 2005 07:37pm | #21

   Come on... Theirs will be made from machined billet brass with cocobolo infill. Lazer engraved reference marks and and a knurled brass thumb screw will allow for percision adjustment. Not to mention the wooden protective case.

   Mike

2. 
   Scrit | Dec 15, 2005 08:27pm | #22

   Mike

   And there was me hoping for a set in malleable cast-iron (nickel plated, of course)with a bevel-up option..... ;-)

   Family Man

   In reality my current pair are about 1-1/2 inches x 5/8 inches section and about 16 and 30 inches long respectively. Made them from beech offcuts and just painted the outer corners white on one of the pair and black on the other one. When not in use they are kept together with rubber bands (thank you Mr. Post Man) and stuffed inside a sealed plastic bag. The top edges are bevelled.

   Scrit

3. 
   mudman | Dec 16, 2005 08:41pm | #24

   The problem with cast iron is that there are so few state side foundries that will do that kind of work economicly. And you can't expect them to out source that to Asia.

   Mike

4. 
   Scrit | Dec 16, 2005 10:23pm | #25

   In that case we'll need to ask Rob to move to titanium ;-)

5. 
   mudman | Dec 16, 2005 11:21pm | #26

   Oh yea now your talkin'. Nothing says USA like machines Ti. Pluss corosion and rust proof.

   Mike

2. 
   Wannabee | Dec 15, 2005 08:38pm | #23

   Is he planning on enforcing a patent to prevent anyone from posting the method?

2. 
   cleanwater | Dec 13, 2005 09:37pm | #19

   Thanks all for the feedback.  I have to say I got a good chuckle at the timber comment on size.  As with most things, the beginner's finesse is nonexistent.  I

    did suspect these to be very large, but its what scraps I had on hand and I figured I needed the practice reducing them if needed.

   The more I practice,  the more I appreciate all of the help from you.

   Thanks

   Family Man

    

    

1. 
   Handrubbed | Dec 14, 2005 12:56am | #20

   I'm glad you saw the humor in it.  We all learned something about a simple thing from this string of posts.  Like Mr. Rogers says: Can you spell c-o-o-p-e-r-a-t-i-o-n?