I’m interested in making wooden rings – the kind worn on your fingers. Something similar to this: http://www.woodenrings.co.uk/
Does anyone know of a good way to do this, so that they are perfectly round and smooth, and accurately sized? I was thinking of cutting out the inner hole with a forstner bit, and then the outer diameter with a hole saw, then sanding smooth somehow. But it might be difficult to make all the various ring sizes accurately. And what about the direction of the grain in the wood? There are a variety of companies on the internet that make these sorts of rings, and they don’t seem to worry about grain direction. Any ideas?
Replies
I think you'd want a little lathe to do this. You could get one of those ring sizing gauges or just a chart that shows the inside dimension, and set your caliper from that. Wikipedia has a pretty good page on ring sizes, if you're interested.
And what about the direction of the grain in the wood? There are a variety of companies on the internet that make these sorts of rings, and they don't seem to worry about grain direction.
That's probably why this company has three plies of wood in each ring. Like plywood, the plies' grain are skewed to each other, so where one layer is weak, the others are stronger. There's no way to get a single layer very strong, as there's always two points with very short grain. You could also add strength by making the ring "longer" (like a tube), or thicker -- but then of course you make a ring that's comparatively uncomfortable to wear.
A lathe seems like a good idea. I've never used one and don't know anything about turning. Can a lathe also be used to cut the inner hole, or just for the outside? I'm assuming one of the "mini lathes" would do the trick?
I've never made a wooden ring, so I can't go further than what I've said. Hopefully you'll catch the ear of a turner who's done this sort of work.My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
montanaholler,
You might want to take a look at http://www.thewoodworkingchannel.com . They have some wood turning seminars on there that are just fantastic. From watching those I would suspect you'll quickly see a methodology for cutting the rings. If you turn/cut the inside first, you can slide the cutoff onto a post and turn the outside..
As another poster said, the multiple 'plys' are there to overcome the weakness of the short grain. I've managed to make some rings using scrap veneer.
I initially drill out the center using a forsner bit. I created 2 tapered mandrils on the lathe, one for the drill press and one for the lathe. The one for the drill press has sandpaper attached to it to fine tune the ring size.
Once the inside is the right size you can slide it on the tapered mandril on the lathe and shape the outside.
Another woodworker suggested that I write an article for one of the mags about my method...maybe someday.
Rich Knab
I turned a ring for my wife before we were married and presented it to her as an engagement ring. While I'd be happy to receive this gift, my wife proclaimed she was tired of receiving handmade objects for every occasion and together we went shopping for a diamond.
That said, it is a fun and easy project. Like the other suggestions in this thread, a lathe is the tool of choice for making rings (for fingers or napkins). The entire process can be done on a mini lathe, or you can cut the interior hole with a drill bit and turn the outside on a lathe to match.
Grain direction is going to be somewhat of an issue with a piece this size because a good portion of it is weak grain. Not a huge issue if you are careful with it, but I agree that the laminated parts of the ring in the photo adds strength, as long as you glue the layers up with with the grain alternating, like plywood.
If you turn the entire piece on the lathe, start with an oversize blank, hollow out the interior, then turn the outside.
One trick for turning the outside is to chuck a scrap piece to the lathe and turn it into a dowel with an outside diameter that matches the inside diameter of the ring. Then jam the ring over your chucked dowel and turn the outside. That will ensure a consistent centerpoint.
Matt Berger
Fine Woodworking
Montana,
My tutor on a green chair making course turned baby's rattles on his pole lathe, as they sell well and can be made rapidly. He uses a piece of applewood log, turns it to a cylinder and then shapes it to include two or three captive rings (ie rings that are loose but captured within concave indentations on the spindle).
The rings are about 1.5 inches in diameter but he has made miniature ones (until the Health & Safety people pointed out he was breaking an obscure baby rattle law).
The wood of these rings has the long grain running in parallel with the rings axis. The applewood is hard, dense and fine grained. These factors seem to make the rings very strong.
He uses a lathe tool that is a scraper with a hook in the end having an internal diameter equal to the diameter of the ring's hoop. You first form the round bead, in the usual way, then use this scraper to cut behind the bead, turning it over to cut behind the other side of the bead after doing the first side. The ring is formed and drops free on the spindle.
I don't know if anyone makes a hooked scraper of sufficiently small a diameter but you could modify an ordinary scraper....
Lataxe
Thanks for all the info. Now I just have to decide what kind of mini lathe to buy and give it a try. I've never used a lathe at all before, and have no idea how to begin. Can anyone recommend a good book with beginner lathe instructions?
M,
The Taunton turning book by Richard Raffan is basic but good and to the point.
It's part of their latest series and is constructed as a proper technical manual - lots of colour photos and diagrams with clear step-by-step text. The contents and index are organised properly too, so you can easily find a particular turning-subject, which subjects are modular (ie self-contained in 2 - 3 pages).
Lataxe
montanaholler,
I bought the books and studied others and they helped...but not half as much as watching a dvd or something like that. (eg. the Wooworking Channel). The problem is that beyond the basics, turning requires synchronized moves of hands and body, for me, watching is essential.
You have the right idea, start with a book.I bought , Foundation Course In Turning, by Keith Rowley. Excellent book, their are videos and dvds too. I only have books myself.I use a lathe that I built myself,no experience in mini lathes.From the turning forums the consensus seems to be the Jet mini-lathe is a good one.When you need turning tools, go to the Penn State website, they have lathes and turning tools.I found that the "Benjamins Best" brand of turning tools are very good,half or less then half the price of well known brands.I have Sorby ,Henry Taylor and the Benjamins Best brand turning tools.They all are quality tools, Bens best are as good as the expensive ones.
Check around for turning clubs in your area, I would bet that they would love to have you join ,and help you decide which lathe, tools etc. Don't worry about being a novice, you won't be after a period of time with these folks.
mike
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