Replies

1. 
   BenA | Apr 20, 2004 02:51pm | #1

   Kiwimac: I've used the Makita (LS1013) saw before and found it it to be dead accurate on the cuts. The only thing I would recommend that you replace the blade ( when it  gets dull) with a Freud Diablo sliding compound blade. http://www.freudtools.com/woodworkers/rep/sawblades/Premier_Series/html/Premier_Series_1.html

    and the cuts will be smoother than a baby behind Good luck.

2. 
   Elcoholic | Apr 20, 2004 03:39pm | #2

   I have a 3 year old LS1212, no complaints except for the original thin kerf blade which I replaced with a 110t FS Tools mitre saw blade.

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

3. 
   dirtstirrer | Apr 20, 2004 03:54pm | #3

   Love mine, it's a 1013.  Great blade too.  There seems to be some complaints about the 12" Makita blade, but I'd put the 10" that the 1013 comes with up against the best.  The saw is my most accurate and reliable tool in my opinion.

   Steve
1. 
   Elcoholic | Apr 20, 2004 10:20pm | #5

   "There seems to be some complaints about the 12" Makita blade"

   For most cross cutting and mitreing the 12" blade, which I think is made by Tenryu, did a fine job.  But being a thin kerf blade it tended to deflect a little bit when cutting compound scarfs in very hard (beech) wood.  The FS Tools blade is just plain awesome.  One other tuning tip is to take the arbor flanges off and lap them on a glass plate w/ SC paper.  It reduced the runout at the teeth by .008".John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

1. 
   dirtstirrer | Apr 21, 2004 08:41am | #6

   Evening John,

   I've not tried the 12", but I'd heard someone say something similar to what you said.  Sounds like it acts like a typical thin kerf blade, right?  No biggie, I use one in my TS sometimes, a Freud, and if you know what its limits are, its a nice blade. 

   That 10" blade in my saw is as close to perfect as I need to be.  As a previous poster said, glass smooth. 

   Have a good one,Steve

1. 
   macalex | Apr 21, 2004 12:07pm | #7

   Thanks guys

   I'm going in tomorrow (I've booked myself off work - its going to be a great autumn day here in Central Otago New Zealand) to buy the saw!

   The few negative comments I've seen (not here - check out Amazon) appear to be about misuse, or not understanding how it works, or in a couple of cases about bad individual machines rather than generic faults.

   I'm also going to unload the ELU (a nice machine, but basic and limited) and some other workshop stuff, including my cheap and nasty Ryobi table saw!

   And that's the next question ... I'd love a table saw like the nice piece of Italian cast iron that I once owned, but can't justify it ... I can feel the table saw equivalent of the Makita slide saw coming on. I just don't have any idea what that'll be!

   Cheershttp://www.macpherson.co.nz

1. 
   mitch | Apr 21, 2004 03:29pm | #8

   the 64 tooth blade that came on my makita ls1013 leaves a polished cut- almost indistinguishable from that of any forrest blade i own.

   m

4. 
   ian | Apr 20, 2004 04:16pm | #4

   I've got the 1013.  IMO a great saw.  When I unpacked it I had to tweak the fences to get the 90deg cut absolutely square and close up the shutters along the cut line.  The word I use is tweak to mean a very minimal adjustment, less than 1mm.  Since then I haven't noticed that the 90 deg cuts are not 90 deg to the fence and 90 deg to the table.  Ditto with 45 deg cuts.

   Mine's fitted with a 80 tooth 2.8mm kerf Makita blade, can't see the catalogue number without removing it.  I'd describe the cut quality as almost glass smooth (I rate it good enough for a glue joint) with no tear out except in some coarse grained brittle woods, and this is without backing up the cut.  Overall I'm very happy with the saw.   

   I think some large US retailers order the saw with a cheaper (40 or 60 tooth) blade which accounts for some of the niggles.

   Ian

5. 
   ameend | Apr 21, 2004 03:36pm | #9

   kiwimac, I've owned 2 of the LS1013 saws since '97 and they have performed admirably. I particularly like the soft start feature and the capability to do bevel cuts both ways. But I was wondering, if you don't need the double compound miter capability, you could opt for the LS1011 which only bevels one way and will save you some$$$. Buck

1. 
   macalex | Apr 22, 2004 11:40am | #10

   Thanks Buck, and the others

   I do sometimes need to tilt both ways. I've got myself into trouble in the past trying to make awkward cuts with a left-tilt-only saw, and have for years wished I had one that went both ways!

   Bought the saw today and mitred some oak trim for a small cabinet. First impressions are good - nice action, beautiful results, sweet blade that cuts with no pressure and no noise. It'll take a while to get accustomed to the differences between the 1013 and my old ELU (which now seems real primitive - I was going to sell it - now I think I'd feel mean unloading it on someone else!). 

   My pack did not contain the horizontal vice - I've ordered one, but wonder how much use you guys make of the clamps/vices?

   There seem to be tool and clamp positioning holes all over the place on this saw - any clues about how they are used?

   What's the kerf block? Apparently only supplied to the Euro market.

1. 
   macalex | Apr 23, 2004 04:46am | #11

   And another thing

   Given that this is such a capable machine, has anyone build special jigs and holders, hold-downs, supplementary fences, or any other customisations for this saw?

   The ability to raise the blade and cut dadoes/slots is interesting. Coving could also be possible (although not the technique of choice! Might be fairly hair-raising) with appropriate hold-downs. 

   What else?