Replies

1. 
   VeniciaL | Jan 01, 2004 08:24pm | #1

   KTKAMM,

   I've never used that exact mixture. But Sam writes in his book, "Sam Maloof Woodworker," that he applies it with his bare hands and rags, at least 3 coats. "When my hand gets hot from the friction, then I know I'm doing the right thing." He doesn't mention the interval between coats. I suggest 48 hours.

   I apply oil varnish mixtures with a rag for the first 1 or 2 coats, then with 4-0 steel wool. I use gloves (nitrile). I recommend keeping the mixture off your skin. Toxicity warnings have been greatly exaggerated. But if you ever get a dermititis from these chemicals, you will be sensitized for life.

   He also warns about the danger of spontoneous combustion of the rags and keeps them in water in a plastic bag until his rag service picks them up. I spread mine out individualy on a concrete floor until they have stiffened (about a day). They're no longer dangerous then.

   VL

1. 
   Tao | Jan 02, 2004 12:46am | #2

   >>He also warns about the danger of spontoneous combustion of the rags and keeps them in water in a plastic bag until his rag service picks them up. I spread mine out individualy on a concrete floor until they have stiffened (about a day). They're no longer dangerous then.

   They are less dangerous when they stiffen up, but linseed oil will continue to oxidize and give off heat for weeks, and remains a spontaneous combustion hazard. That's why most labels for products containing linseed oil say to keep used rags in water until disposed of.

   I've personally been involved in three fires that resulted from spontaneous combustion of one sort or another, so I let rags with linseed oil hang and dry outside until just before the trash man picks them up.  Not as safe as keeping them in water, though.

   I absolutely agree about keeping the stuff off your hands, or at least not soaking your hands in it for hours on end. Lots of good reasons.  You can even getr sensitized to wood dust.  After about ten years working with pine wood, both I and a friend developed skin and respiratory reactions to pine dust.  That was kind of the beginning of my education about such things; nothing like a little direct experience to raise your level of attention...........

   Michael R

2. 
   MrChippy | Jan 02, 2004 02:04am | #3

   Very timely that you should ask this question. I just applied a first coat of the very same oil/poly mixture(although I bought Sam Maloof's premixed version). The instructions on the tin are pretty sparse, just says build up to 4 layers. It does mention to sand the surface to 400 grit then buff with 0000 steel wool before applying the oil/poly so perhaps sanding between coats is not recommended?

   If anyone else has more tips to maximise this finish let us know!

1. 
   VeniciaL | Jan 02, 2004 04:36am | #4

   MrChippy,

   The reason the "instructions" on the tin are "sparse" is because this class of finishes requires very little skill to apply. Wipe it on. Keep the wood "wet" for a while. Wipe it off. Not much for the manufacturer to elaborate about. Also, the Maloof mixture is hardly proprietary, so the supplier is justified in assuming the craftsman knows how to use it.

   Oil/varnish mixtures are very forgiving and there is a great deal of flexibility in their application and handling. That does NOT mean that a great deal of time and effort are not required or justified making them really sing. What is saved in ease of application is made up by the length of time and rubbing necessary to carry out the process (2 weeks is not out of the question).

   If you'll go to the recent "Linseed Oil" thread here you'll find my description of a method using rags, steel wool and a "French Polishing" technique. By the time you've applied these finishes a few times, you will have your own preferred way of doing it.

   VL

1. 
   MrChippy | Jan 02, 2004 06:10am | #5

   Thanks, I just read your post in the Linseed Oil thread, looks like this will give me the finish I am after.