Replies

1. 
   BillLindau | Nov 12, 2004 07:00am | #1

    bill, you could use it over the stain if the stain had cured, but you really need something harder for a table top. Bill

1. 
   billballeza | Nov 12, 2004 08:52am | #2

   I have some MinWax fast drying poly. Will that be hard enough?

2. 
   Lilshaver | Nov 12, 2004 09:52am | #3

   maybe someone ought to tell Maloof

1. 
   billballeza | Nov 12, 2004 11:26pm | #4

   Do you think the Maloof oil/poly is hard enough for a tabletop? I used it on a walnut computer table and it seems to be holding up.. but there is never anything wet or hot put on it.

2. 
   bleubassplyr | Nov 13, 2004 07:28pm | #5

   I would recommend something more substantial. I have a kitchen table finished with Gloss poly (it's harder than satin) and a dining table finished with Boiled Linseed Oil and a couple coats of The Maloof mix. There is no comparison in durability, the poly wins hands down. The problem is the visible film poly leaves. If you can live with that poly is the way to go. Thin coats. I use Minwax spray. Use a cloth lightly sprayed with the finish to wipe all the dust off.

   There are more old drunkards than old doctors.  Ben Franklin

1. 
   billballeza | Nov 15, 2004 10:58pm | #6

   Thank you, sir. I'm going with poly. Looking through an old FWW article I read that applying the first two coats with gloss poly, followed by satin, gives you that satin look without the cloudy film. I'll try it that way and see what happens.

1. 
   bleubassplyr | Nov 16, 2004 04:35am | #7

   A lot of pro's recommend using gloss for all coats then buffing with 0000 steel wool down to whatever sheen you want. I've done this and it works.There are more old drunkards than old doctors.  Ben Franklin

1. 
   highfigh | Nov 16, 2004 09:38am | #8

   You can use spar varnish, too. That's what has been used for years on wooden boats. Gloss finishes are generally harder than the others, decreasing in hardness as they become less glossy. Using 0000 steel wool or fine ScotchBrite works well for removing the gloss. If you have ScotchBrite pads that seem to be just about dead, they'll be just about right for this, as long as the finish has cured completely.

1. 
   bleubassplyr | Nov 16, 2004 04:16pm | #10

   On a bed I built I used a 3 part finish using mineral spirits, Turpentine, and Spar varnish as Garrett Hack uses. Man, it stinks like crazy. Spar is softer and more flexible than poly so I'm not sure why anyone would use it on a table. Those attributes make it great for boat use.There are more old drunkards than old doctors.  Ben Franklin

2. 
   highfigh | Nov 16, 2004 05:17pm | #11

   Just curious, why are ther two different thinners in that finish? Does one of them affect the hardness or is it more for the drying characteristics?

3. 
   HowardAcheson | Nov 16, 2004 07:16pm | #12

   I wondered that myself. Both mineral spirits and turpentine are thinners. Both completely evaporate leaving no trace of themselves. You could use either one individually with exactly the same results.Howie.........

4. 
   bleubassplyr | Nov 16, 2004 08:21pm | #13

   ....because I was tired when I wrote the response. It should read, Turp, Boiled Linseed Oil, and Spar Varnish. Sorry for the confusion. Normally I use Mineral Spirits, BLO, and Gloss Poly.There are more old drunkards than old doctors.  Ben Franklin

5. 
   highfigh | Nov 16, 2004 10:59pm | #14

   That's OK, I was tired when I asked the question. Now it makes sense. Equal parts or more thinner than BLO?I cut this piece four times and it's still too short.

6. 
   bleubassplyr | Nov 16, 2004 11:55pm | #15

   I like to use equal parts BLO and poly with a little less on the mineral spirits. Equal parts of all three feels really thin to me. To each his own I guess. Wet sanding, with the 3 part, during the second or third coat really smoothes it out. On any kind of table top use at least 4 or 5 coats. Even that may not be enough for thorough protection.There are more old drunkards than old doctors.  Ben Franklin

7. 
   highfigh | Nov 17, 2004 12:55am | #16

   I have been using Minwax fast drying poly thinned (for spraying only) with Naptha. If I brush it on, I use foam brushes. If I need to fill open grain, like oak, I thin it, brush or spray it on and after it sits a few minutes, I go over it with a green ScotchBrite pad. After a few coats, it has a nice, even coat with a satin look. I use either semi-gloss or gloss, so the finish is harder.I cut this piece four times and it's still too short.

2. 
   Gretchen | Nov 16, 2004 03:34pm | #9

   You can also use a non-poly varnish for a warmer look--in my opinion.  I wipe on satin varnish thinned 50/50 being VERY careful to keep the finish swirled to insure the flatting agents are kept in suspension.Gretchen