Replies

1. 
   ABenker | Feb 26, 2004 01:35am | #1

   It shouldn't stay tacky, especially since you are putting on such thin coats. You should be able to do coat a day. I would definitely use steel wool or 400 grit silicon carbide, between coats to help remove any dust that has settled on the previous coat and tack cloth it off. As with all of these wipe on finishes that recommend wiping off excess, you will find that you will likely need 7-10 coats to get a good even finish. They like to recommend 4, because if they say 7-8 a lot of people think it is too much work, but if done correctly they give a beautiful finish.

   Good luck

   Aaron

1. 
   billballeza | Feb 26, 2004 02:21am | #2

   Thanks, Aaron. I'll use 0000 steel wool between coats.

   Bill

2. 
   VeniciaL | Feb 26, 2004 02:23am | #3

   Bill,

   The finish will harden well. But a coat a day is unrealistic. You really need to wait at least 48 hours between coats. More if the surface does not feel hard and dry.

   Sam applies the stuff with his bare hands, rubbing hard enough to generate heat. You can steel wool (4-0) the surface after the first coat hardens for each successive coat or use steel wool as the applicator pad to apply each new coat. Rub well with the pad, using the finish as a lubricant, then wipe off the excess.

   4 coats should take about 2 weeks to properly apply.

   VL

1. 
   billballeza | Feb 26, 2004 02:43am | #4

   With his bare hands? You mean no gloves?

   That's how we rubbed our rifle stocks with linseed oil in the Marines.. so I just might do as Sam does.

   I'm finishing a small walnut box I made. There's no rush.. so I'll take my time. Thanks for the heads up.

   Bill

1. 
   VeniciaL | Feb 26, 2004 10:50am | #5

   Bare hands. No sissy gloves.

   I hope he (and his crew) have stopped that!

   VL

2. 
   BG | Feb 26, 2004 07:56pm | #7

   bill.

   This is pure opinion...I did a hard rub with bare hands on a coffee table using Waterlox, 6 coats.  It came out really nice...but I needed to wear the respirator. 

   For a small box, unless it was shaker style, I'd prefer a shellac followed by lacquer and rubbed out finish...more of a polished look...

1. 
   billballeza | Feb 27, 2004 12:30am | #8

   BG.. this morning I applied the first coat of the linseed, tung, poly mix and could not believe how it transformed my walnut box. It's a  nearly fool proof finish and I can't wait to see how it looks after multiple coats. Now I'm fired up to make something else with my walnut stock.

1. 
   BG | Feb 27, 2004 02:00am | #9

   Bill,

   I'm sure it'll come out lovely.  One of the reasons I posted my shellac/lacquer opinion is because my shop is small and tying it up for several days if not weeks with slow drying finishes drives me crazy...but, sometimes sacrifices have to be made...

   Yesterday I started a box using So. American Cherry..just for fun (ie. my hates me to make boxes, she has no use for them).  After squaring, resawing and planing today I cut the dovetails.  This wood is so thin and hard the pins shattered...sigh.  Tomorrow I'll recut and do miters....

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Feb 26, 2004 06:05pm | #6

   VL, you make an excellent point. Hand rubbing generates heat which is the component in the process that causes the slow curing tung oil to cure faster. It's truly a "rubbed finish". Tung oil is one of the slowest curing finishes. Heating it slightly speeds up the time somewhat.

   To get a good looking "Maloof" finish requires time and effort. Even then, when all done, it is not a very durable finish. But, it sure looks nice.