Replies

1. 
   oldusty | Sep 12, 2007 06:06pm | #1

    WC,

             I haven't used the shellac but you can also get White lacquer , then do your top coat .

                       happy spraying

                                 dusty

2. 
   Ronaway | Sep 12, 2007 07:00pm | #2

   I would go ahead and seal it with dewaxed shellac and then you could use any manner of different white top coats. Latex never really gets very hard at all so it would not be a good choice for any kind of piece for display. If you would like to stay with a waterbased product Sherwin Williams Pro Classic acrylic enamel would work well.

   Ron

   If you're too open minded your brains will fall out.
1. 
   saschafer | Sep 12, 2007 07:43pm | #3

   "Latex never really gets very hard at all so it would not be a good choice for any kind of piece for display. If you would like to stay with a waterbased product Sherwin Williams Pro Classic acrylic enamel would work well."

   This is something that I have to admit being confused about. Aren't all modern "latex" paints actually acrylics? (My understanding is that you can still sometimes find vinyl latex paints, but they've been all but eliminated by acrylic.)

   What I've been told is that if you want a truly hard surface, you have to use an oil-based alkyd paint (assuming you're going with a paint as opposed to a lacquer, etc.).

   -Steve

    

   Edited 9/12/2007 12:46 pm ET by saschafer

1. 
   Ronaway | Sep 12, 2007 09:43pm | #4

   The S-W Pro Classic enamel is a waterborne version of their alkyd enamel and is specially formulated for cabinetry. It cures harder than latex, is sandable, and I found it easy to spray by just thinning it about 10% with distilled water. I used it on my kitchen cabinets and it has been quite durable. (Let me just say that I have no affiliation with Sherwin Williams other than being a satisfied customer)RonIf you're too open minded your brains will fall out.

   Edited 9/12/2007 2:44 pm ET by Ronaway

1. 
   saschafer | Sep 12, 2007 09:55pm | #5

   Okay, that makes sense. Maybe I can finally get rid of that can of paint thinner for good.

   I only use the oil-based alkyd on shelves. Paint a shelf with latex paint, and everything you put on it will stick, for at least the next thirty years. (That's how long ago I painted some bookcases, when I was young and foolish; now I'm old and foolish, but I still have those bookcases).

   -Steve

    

   Edited 9/12/2007 3:01 pm ET by saschafer

3. 
   Jfrostjr | Sep 13, 2007 04:44pm | #6

   You might try a "Glaze". Star Finishes makes a product called Nu-Glaze and it comes in white. A glaze could give him his "white" while being a lot more aesthetically satisfactory to you.

   If you are not familiar with glazes, they are very thickly pigmented colors.

   A sealer coat is applied to the raw wood and then roughed with 220 grit. The glaze is applied (it is the thickness of catsup) and allowed to dry for 3-5 minutes. Then wipe it off to the color density you find pleasing. It really looks good!

   After a window of "30 minutes to 2 hours" start applying the final surface finish: shellac, poly etc.

   I usually color my wood with a "dye", then a sealer, and finally a glaze to really "richen up" the color.

   Frosty

   "I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

1. 
   Handrubbed | Sep 16, 2007 02:22am | #8

   I don't think that glaze will yield the density of color (white) that is desired. White glaze is meant for giving a pickled type of finish where a good deal of the natural wood tone shows through. This was popular a few years ago on kitchen cabinets. It is a nice effect, but the piece needs a lot of surface interest such as moldings, panels, grooves, etc., where the white pigment can reside after the bulk of the glaze has been wiped away.

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Sep 16, 2007 03:44pm | #9

   It was just a thought. I sensed that you were offended at the prospect of 'paint'. Uggh!Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

1. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 16, 2007 07:22pm | #10

   It was just a thought. I sensed that you were offended at the prospect of 'paint'. Uggh!Just a general comment on my part.I have a friend that owns a house I'd have to take out a 30 year loan just to pay 2 years taxes on it.Guess what,,, His one long, high wall in the basement has custom made cherry cabinets. All solid wood except for the shelves. There must be $25,000 dollars of cabinets there. Guess what..They are painted white and look just great!

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Sep 17, 2007 04:26pm | #12

   Will,

   That's downright blasphemous!

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

2. 
   Handrubbed | Sep 17, 2007 02:48am | #11

   Actually that is a great suggestion...paint is the only way I know to get an opaque white finish.  I would suggest investigating the paint options carefully because many white paints yellow (badly) with age.  No suggestion here should ever be taken as anything but constructive.  Thanks.

4. 
   woodcrafter | Sep 15, 2007 12:50pm | #7

   Couldn't just drop off without saying thank you. I've been talking to the folks at Sherwin Williams and am inclined to go with their product line. Also the savings of opening a business account will be well worth it. FWIW - I'm going to experiment with some glazing to try and achieve some "toning" to knock down the harshness of the stark white.

   Thank you all again.