Replies

1. 
   Jimma | Apr 06, 2002 04:18am | #1

   Wow, that is going to weigh a ton. I would consider a design change if I were you. However, the way I'd go about it is to plan on material that is a nominal 2 inches square, or whatever you can rip from your stock with efficiency. I would glue these up in rows that are one piece thick by whatever width and length you want -- in this case 27 inches wide by 18 inches deep (or a bit over if you have to have a precise finished size) -- so you'd have a glue up that's 2 inches thick by 27 inches wide. Make as many of these as you have stock and clamps to glue up. When the glue has set, plane off the squeeze-out and then glue these 2X27-inch assemblies together until you have the width you want, making sure you stagger them brick-layer style so the individual pieces don't line up. It will be very important to get all the pieces to the same size before starting your glue up, so I'd recommend using a wide belt sander or surface planer to do this. If you want to see a commercial version of a butcher block before you start, go to a restaurant supply and check out the ones made by Boos or others. It's not as easy as it sounds, and you might be better off buying one that's ready made. Your specs will create a VERY heavy assembly. Good luck.

   
   

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   Edited 4/5/2002 9:23:29 PM ET by JIMMACMAHON

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Apr 06, 2002 07:18pm | #2

   Let me suggest you purchase one ready made. The shop I was involved with made a couple and never came close to making any money. The last one "we" did, we purchased, marked it up and made a nice profit. It was a better block than we made.

   BTW, we built it as was suggested.

3. 
   charlesstanford | Apr 07, 2002 05:03pm | #3

   Build the base and outsource the butcher block top. 

4. 
   grwright2 | Apr 07, 2002 05:47pm | #4

   Norm Abrams built one on the New Yankee Workshop a few seasons ago.  It airs again on April 16 on HGTV.  It appears to be a decent design with only a modest degree of difficulty. 

1. 
   jhausch | Apr 07, 2002 11:12pm | #5

   I saw Norm's too.  Interesting detail he did double-beveling the bottom edges so the top would float.

   I agree with others, buy premade top.  Cut 2" sections, turn on end, and glue together.

   Be very diligent keeping the ass'y flat during glue up and clamping.  You do not want to be sanding down engrain to get a flat top.

   Good LuckSteelkilt Lives!

1. 
   Mongo | Apr 09, 2002 01:15am | #6

   What kind of glue would you folks recommend for the end-grain maple? How about for a laminated strip teak countertop (acetone wash first)?

   Thanks

1. 
   Jimma | Apr 10, 2002 06:12pm | #7

   I use Titebond II and have had no problems after several years and many end-grain cutting bnoards. It seems to be OK with frequent exposure to running water (the end grain appears to soak up the water before it softens any of the joints) and it doesn't leave pronounced glue lines. If you want a totally waterproof glue, check with your suppliers. I wouldn't use Gorilla-type glue, but Weldwood or others are out there.