Replies

1. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Nov 08, 2002 07:54pm | #1

   First thing you will want to do is to use a sanding sealer to balance the absorbtion of the color -  this will help prevent 'blotching'.  I use a 50% dilution of my top coat, then sand with 320 grit lightly.  I have had excellent luck with gel stains.   Others have had success spraying the stain on, but I wipe it on, let it set for ~15 minutes, apply a second coat if I need to. One bit of advice with this method, if you use a water based top coat, use an oil based stain, and vice versa, so you won't dilute your stain and have streaks/runs when you do your finish coat.  Water based finishes will dilute w.b. stains, etc. This method has worked well for me. 

   I haven't used analine dyes, as it would be harder to correct a mistake if I didn't like the color combination.

1. 
   ChiefsFa2 | Nov 08, 2002 08:42pm | #2

   Maybe a silly question but wont a sanding sealer actually stop the stain from into the wood?Wine is God's way of capturing the sun.

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Nov 08, 2002 09:25pm | #3

   Reducing absorption is the reason for applying a sealer--not a sanding sealer--to blotch prone wood. The sealer is absorbed into the softer, more absorbent areas of the wood to a greater extent than it is absorbed into the harder areas. When you sand you remove more sealer from the harder areas and some sealer remains in the more absorbent areas. Now when you apply the stain, the stain is inhibited from being over absorbed by the softer areas and you end up with a more consistent but lighter color.

   It doesn't always work or make for a perfect job.

1. 
   ChiefsFa2 | Nov 08, 2002 09:35pm | #4

   Craig specifically said a sanding sealer...thats what confused meWine is God's way of capturing the sun.

1. 
   RW | Nov 09, 2002 03:11am | #5

   Well, you said you've got experience with cherry. That's half the battle right there. You already have probably tried various finishes there. The thing with maple for me seems to be a general lack of absorption. You stain it, you wipe it, you still pretty much got maple. Sure, you get little blotches, but overall it doesn't seem to soak things up real nice. Also noticed I spend twice as much time sanding for the same end result as oak. I'm with the sealer, but make sure it's compatible with the top coats. Most of the "sanding sealer" marketed isn't with your polys, for instance. If you want to try dyes, why not? You ain't learnin any younger! Get some superblond shellac, seal the thing, (and some test pieces) and start playing. I get the best results from a touchup gun, dye, and a very thin cut of shellac in with the dye to make things stick (rather than trying to absorb layer after layer of dye until you hit your color). The touchup gun, when you put something as thin as alcohol in it, still sprays a good 8" fan. If I mix a 3lb cut of shellac, I put about an inch of that into the touchup gun, mix the dyes and alcohol in a separate plastic tub, and add that to the gun. Work in thin shades. A little more red, no a little yellow now . . . you'll barely see a difference coat to coat, but ten, twelve later and you've gone from blond to mahogany. And when it's all done you've already got the tie/sealer coat on and can top it with about anything. Nice thing is you're using so little shellac, even after a lot of thin shades you really haven't built anything up appreciably.

2. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Nov 12, 2002 08:44pm | #6

   Basically the sanding sealer seals the pores of the softer wood, making the finish more even in color.  What I do when I stain maple, I take the final finish & dilute it by 50% for my sanding sealer.  So if I am using a WB poly, I dilute it by 50%, apply it, then sand it ( this also raises the grain).  Then I apply my stain ( I prefer gel stains for maple),  it may take 2 coats to get the desired color.   Then I apply my top finish coats.