All,
I noticed in the middle of a shaker end table top I’m making there is chunk of wood missing. The tearout measures about 1/16″ deep and 1/4″ diameter across. My finishing plan is a couple three coats of danish oil followed by wipe on varnish…ie. no stain. Can someone suggest how to fill this hole so that it’ll look acceptable? thanks
Replies
If you have any scraps left over, cut a thin wafer 1/8" thick approx 1" square from one taht has a matching or similar grain pattern to the area. lay it out over the tearout to get best grain match, then mark its outline and score it with a stiking knife.
At this point, use a chisel to crate a space for the patch and make sure to leave the patch 1/64" - 1/32" above the rest of the field and then glue in the patch. when dry, sand even with the rest of the table and if all is done just right, the patch should be near invisible
Rick503,
Thanks, I forgot about that kinda solution, sounds like fun...kinda.
I actually find the challenge of creating as invisible a patch as possible almost as satisfying as the rest of the project.
One tip, use a stainable glue when you do this and try to leave very little near the edges when you put the patch in - you want little to no glue squeeze out that could possibly cause finishing problems. I noticed that elmers just came out with a stainable glue, made with wood fibers..1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
Rick503,
I am concerned about the glue showing. I've been using epoxy on this project and, while it dries clear, it tends to darken the wood around the M&T joints. I had thought about going back ot yellow for the table tops but maybe the Elmers would be a better choice for the top as well as the patch. Thanks
BG,
Gorilla Glue is a good one to use for this.
If you clamp down the patch so that the edges are accessable, you can wipe away every last trace of squeeze out (before it starts to set) with acetone. The wood will be compeletly clean of any residue and is the patch is a good fit, and tapered correctly, the glue line will be invisible.
Rich
BG,
Sealing the end grain of the patch and the recess with a coat of clear finish before gluing will prevent the end grain from taking up glue, and will make the line less visible. An irregular diamond or oval shape will be less visible than square or circular. It is critical to not only match the grain lines (the way the growth rings are exposed) by orienting the curvature of the growth rings to match from the patch to the top, but just as important to match the inclination of the grain fibers, if the grain in the top is running "uphill" from left to right, the fibers in your patch MUST incline the same direction, or it will catch the light differently (called chatoyance), and stick out like the proverbial sore thumb. This is a challenging repair to make, esp on a top, and one that will not be stained.
Good luck,
Ray
Joinerswork,
I just came up from doing the patch and gluing up the boards/tops. I was a bit leary of the oval shape as I only have straight chisels so I made a diamond...from a cut off of the same board, the grain is a tight match, beveled the edges, kept the glue in the center...not so sure about the chatoyance thing...and that is important. After sanding three of the four sides have disappeared completely...but I don't know what it'll look like after I finish preparing the rest of the tops. If worse comes to worse...I'll just do it again with a new patch. These freaking learning curves are for the birds. thanks
Bg,
Here's a method which I think is better than Rick's, because you can get asqueeze fit and the shape can be made to follow grain pattern:-
Find some wood with gain and colour as close as possible to the area around that hole-about 8mm thick.
Draw an irregular oval or extended circular shape big enough to cover that hole.
Cut it out with bandsaw or coping saw or whatever you have. Use disc sander to fair the edge and more importantly sand it to a bit off 90*- slightly tapered. Mark the bottom or "pointed" side.
Use the plug to draw the shape over the hole. Use your router with a say 4mm straight bit and carefully rout a cavity about 6 or 7 mm deep.
Glue the plug into the cavity-you should have to tap it home . Not too much glue!Level off by sanding and/or scraping when dry.
I have done many invisible fixes like that. It is easier than it sounds.
Possibly you may think that the hole is too small for this treatment- but as I have said if done well the repair is not visible even to experienced eyes. Anyway-you may have to deal with bigger defects in future projects.
Philip,
As I'm reading your solution I can't help but think that maybe a plug cutter and drill would work? I've got some scraps that would come at least close to the grain...and the fit would be real easy..what do you think?
I like Rick's plan of attack also, I was planning to use the router with a jig to get a consistent depth for the patch...and the bandsaw for slices of repair stock.
Bg,
A good plug cutter will do the job easily - but it makes a uniform shape, a circle, so the chances are that the fix will be visible. I favour the method outlined because you can tailor the shape to blend with the figure in the wood-maple is well suited to that. Also you can control the tightness of the fit-a very tight fit means no glue line.
Lots of good info in the previous responses. I'd like to add one thing. A while ago in this forum discussing repairs, the poster suggested lightly hammering the patch into the opening to mash it out and fill any poorly fit areas. I've used this trick several times since I'm still learning to work precisely and accurately and it works.
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