Replies

1. 
   jazzdogg | Aug 04, 2005 05:55pm | #1

   KDM,

   I use keel or chalk for roughing out. Once the stock is squared, I used a sharp pencil or marking knife. For joinery layouts and hinge gains, I find it very helpful to apply white low-tack masking tape to the areas of the wood where I'll be marking layouts; after marking out, parts of the tape are sacrificed during the process of cutting joints, the rest stays in place until the joinery is completed.

   I find that having a work light at a low raking angle helps me visualize lines far easier than ambient overhead lighting.

   Good luck,

   -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

2. 
   hammer1 | Aug 04, 2005 06:31pm | #2

   You normally don't need a squared across mark when using a miter saw or a square guided circular saw, just a little tick on the edge. If needed, I use a marking knife for crossgrain marks. I used white masking tape on my last job for scribe work but it had a tendency to roll up with the jig saw. I switched to using an awl. A soft pencil mark reflects light quite well for scroll work, if you leave any of the line, it can be cleaned up with an eraser. Good light and clean glasses are a must. I'm up to 2.75 on my reading glasses and I think I see details better than when I was young. I wonder if those with good eyes would benefit from using some low power magnifiers when doing precise work.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

3. 
   PlaneWood | Aug 04, 2005 07:18pm | #3

   Yellow, light blue, or white Jel pens available at Walmart.  Just make sure you keep the cap on when not using.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

1. 
   dukeone | Aug 04, 2005 07:28pm | #4

   All: I'm sorry, I meant for numbering similar parts ie: 1,2,3, etc. The other advice is also usefull.

    

   KDMKenneth Duke Masters
   The Bill of Rights
   December 15 1791
   NRA Endowment Member
   LEAA Life Member
   CRPA Member

1. 
   Lilshaver | Aug 04, 2005 07:55pm | #5

   use chalk or write with anything on a small piece of masking tapeafterthought: self-stick notes work well also (and they come in a rainbow of colors!)

   Edited 8/4/2005 12:56 pm ET by jpatrick

2. 
   Patto | Aug 05, 2005 03:56am | #6

   Duke

   I have a white wax pencil for this - works well except in hot weather when it gets a bit gluggy. Comes off easily with a scraper. Brand name is Chinagraph - it was the technology for writing on glass and maps before the spirit pens.

   Dave

1. 
   dukeone | Aug 05, 2005 06:50am | #7

   Dave; I'll see if I can find one locally. The pencil I used is giving me a hard time coming off- mineral spirits, sanding, pencil eraser; there is still some of it visible. Could it be oil based? There are hundreds of pencils at the art store, I just grabed the first white one I found. KDMKenneth Duke Masters
   The Bill of Rights
   December 15 1791
   NRA Endowment Member
   LEAA Life Member
   CRPA Member

4. 
   Steinmetz | Aug 06, 2005 04:15am | #8

   Duke, after reading all the suggestioms, maskingtape and ball point pen is my favorite.

   Or, chalk covered with clear packing tape?
   BUT, since I also sew,(Mostly leather)I use a white fabric marker.
   They have several markers for fabrics that you may find useful in
   Sewing machine shops .

   If you're skittish about shopping with all those little old ladies,(Some with blue tennis shoes) send your 'MS' (Main Squeeze) Steinmetz.

5. 
   BrentS | Aug 06, 2005 04:41am | #9

   Duke,

    I use a China Marker. I don't know under what name it goes where you're from, but here in Montreal I buy them at Drafting or Art supply stores. It's basically a pencil with some sort of grease "lead" in it.It stays on the wood while I need it but is easy to remove after. It comes in 4-5 different colors which makes it useful for just about any wood. Thet cost about $2 each and last as long as a regular pencil.

   Brent

    

   
   

   ---

   Edited 8/5/2005 9:42 pm ET by brent

1. 
   Dan | Aug 06, 2005 06:08am | #10

   Aloha,

   I use colored stick-on dots available from a stationary store, especially for matching pieces and joint components.  I found that trying to keep track of A, B, C or 1, 2, 3 just didn't work for me.  Many times in the hassle of glue up I'd find A connected to B.  The colored dots just seem to stand out more.  I also use them to ID edges that are to be machined especially if I have a large number of pieces.  The mind wanders when doing rote work.  I'm old enough to have senior moments where I turn around and say to myself, 'Now what the heck was I just about to do?'  Mistakes are but an opportunity for fresh design!

6. 
   jackiechan | Aug 06, 2005 06:45am | #11

   Ken,

   A lumber crayon works well and comes in a number of colors.  This works best on the denser woods (e.g. maple, birch, etc...).  It is much more difficult to remove from the less dense or stringy woods.  You can find them at your local home centers.

   Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

7. 
   hitai | Aug 06, 2005 09:04pm | #12

   When I'm working with ebony, or wenge I will scribe with a sharp knife and then wipe white chalk across the cut. Very precise and fast. 

1. 
   AlanTurner | Aug 08, 2005 08:57pm | #14

   Yup. In my tool tray at the rear of the bench lives a tin (Altoids) of white chalk dust such as used for a snap line. Just a touch on a finger, and wipe across a finely scribed line. Shows up well, and a pound is a lifetime supply.Alan

   http://www.alanturnerfurnituremaker.com

8. 
   WillGeorge | Aug 08, 2005 08:36pm | #13

   I do NOT mark my wood at all..

   I have a 'list' of the cuts I want... I have a HUGE set of brass blocks of different sizes from when I set-up Brown-N-Sharp screw machines..

   I just use the brass blocks to check before I cut...

   Some day I will figure out a way to get them blocks back in the right slot of that drawer!