Replies

1. 
   UncleDunc | Feb 26, 2003 06:23am | #1

   It's to indicate that they are in fact hand cut dovetail. I've seen people in FWW saying it's an affectation. Personally, I can see not taking the time to plane or sand it out on drawer sides, but I think it looks goofy on the outside of a piece.

2. 
   SgianDubh | Feb 26, 2003 06:48am | #2

   I guess it comes from the time that cabinetmakers worked more as a machine than a person. It was production line stuff knocking out drawers in the 1800's and 1700's, not a hobby, nor a pleasure. A deep mark from a cutting gauge was a definite point into which the cutting edge of the chisel was set for the final paring to the shoulder line, much as a similar mark is a line to set a tenon saw to. Machine woodworkers generally don't understand the practical needs and realities of speedy hand woodworking operations of this nature.

   Naturally, to be useful as a locating point for a chisel's cutting edge, the cutting gauge mark was deep, and as a natural consequence of ease of movement, it's easier to strike the mark across the whole width rather than pinpoint between the pins-- production and speed again. There was surely nothing glamorous about cutting dovetails in a 19th. century sweatshop 10 hours a day, six days a week.

   To remove all signs of the scribed mark (which might be up to 1.5 to 2 mm deep) from each drawer side would mean a drawer would end up a sloppy fit-- which would be cause for getting fired, and therefore out of an income. 

   I habitually leave the across the grain knife scribed marks visible on the outside of my furniture for the same reason. It's neither an affectation, nor showing off, as Uncle Dunc suggested some workers believe--- it's merely practical, time saving, and cost reducing-- from a handworkers point of view. Slainte.

   Website                                          The poster formerly known as Sgian Dubh

1. 
   jgaiennie | Feb 26, 2003 07:34am | #3

   Richard, Unc,

   Thanks for your replys.  It never occured to me that they could be used to actually guide the point of the chissel.

   jdg

   Edited 2/26/2003 5:26:33 AM ET by jdg

1. 
   BG | Mar 13, 2003 04:50pm | #4

   JDG,

   Since Richard posted his remarks I've applying the technique.  After marking I put in front vise of the workbench, align the scribed line with the top of the vise stock, lay the chisel on the vise stock and chop away....beautiful cuts.  It may seem harder to cut/chop on the horizontal but it's not and the blade needs sharpening less often.  I can also sit down when I chop.

1. 
   timberrattler | Mar 13, 2003 09:01pm | #5

   I was just going out to buy some bench hold downs to easily clamp down a guide to chop vertically. It never occured to me to do it that way. Do you clamp the piece between two pieces of wood with nice clean edges? I can't wait to try this. My biggest problem cutting dovetails is seeing. this technique seems like it could be a lot more accurate. I am a little pissed about not having the hold downs though. Ah, what the Heck Garrett Wade is just a few blocks away maybe I'll take a walk over and see if they have anything else to spend my dough on.

1. 
   BG | Mar 13, 2003 10:48pm | #6

   Circlekid,

   Abou three-four weeks ago I bought the pony hold down and used that for a week or so.  It worked well, but I put a 2" piece of stock along the cut line to support the chisel and keep it perfectly vertical.  It became a pain to align the stock with the cut line.  Just for yucks I stuck it in the front vise of the workbench.  The vise is a jorgensen with a 2" thick wood jaw.  Aligning the edge of the jaw along the cut line is much faster..and of course, holds tighter than a hold down.  The chisel has plenty of support to drive straight into the dovetail and gives me nice clean surfaces.  Fliping around the piece ans aligning is quicker.  Also, if i want to bowl them a little..no problem in the vise. I'll leave in the vise for final paring, planing, and sanding.

   PS. if you make your cut line and put in vise flush to jaw..it is very easy to run a pencil along the cut line to darken... 

   Edited 3/13/2003 3:50:49 PM ET by BG

2. 
   timberrattler | Mar 14, 2003 04:26pm | #9

   BG,

   Fooled with your system last night. So much more happy with my results. Much cleaner more consistant line. I clamped up my piece, coped out some waste dropped it down to the line chopped and in 1/4 of the time had some real nice results. Will keep practicing, and have a few ideas. Will keep you posted.

3. 
   BG | Mar 14, 2003 06:07pm | #10

   Circlekid,

   Great, thanks for the feedback.  It's nice to know it worked for someone else too.  Any ideas please share..the talented folks on here have already forgotten what were trying to learn.

   Lately I've been doing pins first ...small ones like you see on hand made pieces from the early 1800's.  Choping the tails is especially fast...but marking the cut line along the end grain is a bit tricky.  When I use the pins to mark out the tails I have to change it a straight edge to mark the end grain..it's to hit and miss.  Maybe practice is the issue...

2. 
   jgaiennie | Mar 14, 2003 01:45am | #7

   BG,

   I appreciate your comments.

   jdg

3. 
   Shepherd1800 | Mar 14, 2003 03:16am | #8

   I am just lazy and don't plane them off.

   Stephen Shepherd

   http://www.ilovewood.com