I’m building a shaker-style entry way table. The base will be painted (with milk paint). It will also be joined with pegged tenons. I would like to the pegs to remain unpainted.
I’m curious if anyone has any tips on how to mask them?
I’m building a shaker-style entry way table. The base will be painted (with milk paint). It will also be joined with pegged tenons. I would like to the pegs to remain unpainted.
I’m curious if anyone has any tips on how to mask them?
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Replies
There may be other ways, but the only one I can think of off-hand is to assemble, sand, and paint, and then drill the peg holes after that (with a very sharp forstner or brad point bit. Of course, that would mean having a very smooth peg end, with a good 90º cut on the end so it would sit flush when tapped in. Sorry, that's all I've got unless you apply masking fluid on the already-installed and sanded pegs, with a tiny brush. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Px8gpl4zLGw
I've never done this myself. One possibility would be to leave the pegs proud and then paint and then flush the peg after done painting by method of choice. In essence the long proud peg masks itself. Of course, could flush first and use some blue painters tape on end of the peg and just remove the tape.
Never done what your trying to do but I have this stacked set of tools for cutting holes in gaskets. I've used them for making perfect round plugs in thin stock . You could use something like that to make masking tape "dots" the exact dimension as your dowels.
I've done similar with square peg details which were proud of the surface...
I had a project where I was doing faux square "pegged" tenons. On a practice piece, I found that it was nearly impossible to get finish applied evenly around the square pegs after they were installed - wiped on finish just wanted to pool in odd ways around them. So I opted to make the square pegs and apply finish to the exposed surfaces. Then I glued the whole case together with the square holes cut, applied the finish, then glued and drove in the square pegs. Even finish on case and pegs. Worked great. Could certainly do the same with a painted case and unpainted pegs.
BUT if you are trying the same method for a painted case with flush cut pegs, don't think you will be satisfied... Essentially, the paint has a slight thickness, so when you tried to get the plugs flush, your fingers will always "feel" the difference as you run them across. But raised ends of pegs are a great look, so I would embrace them!
SO - I would make the case with the holes, paint it, then drive in prefinished plugs. (Doubt you would even have to clean up excess paint that got in the holes.) Practice first!
Good luck - post what you ended up doing with pics for us to learn!
Put temporary/removable dowels in holes to prevent paint from getting in and then paint table. Twist out temporary dowels. Drill holes in a piece of scrap. Put pegs in the drilled holes. Finish ends of pegs. Remove pegs and install in holes on your project.
^^^Bingo!!
I can say for sure that blue tape won't work well.
Never tried any of these 'brainstorm' ideas but some might be worth a try on a scrap piece first:
Might be worth experimenting with hot glue to see if it would work. It will soften before paint with gentle heating.
How about a blob of wax? would also 'finish' the plugs. Apply using a hole in card as a stencil.
Sink your pegs a bit deeper on the show side and insert a veneer plug after painting.
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