Replies

1. 
   TAB | Nov 14, 2000 06:46pm | #1

   *
   Hi Keith:

   I'll bet it's a lacquer finish which has darkened (yellowed) over the years, although I could be wrong, and it may just be an oil (tung or linseed) finish.

   I'd experiment with tinted lacquer first and see if I could match the sheen. If you go the oil route, I'd be very hesitant to dye the oil or get into that sort of tinting. I'd avoid staining the wood: the figure in walnut is usually obscured/muddied by staining (except when you stain the sapwood to match the heartwood, but that's a different matter).

   Keep in mind that finishes can look dramatically different depending on the grain density of the underlying wood. Plain straight-grained walnut will have a much duller/dryer appearance than swirling figured walnut.

   For oil finishes, remember that tung oil finishes will not darken as much over time as (boiled) linseed oil finishes will.

   I like to 'pop' walnut with a coat of oil (allow to dry for at least three days) and then build up orange shellac until I get to the color I want (walnut really looks nice with a bit of amber/orange tinting). If I want more protection at that point, I continue with white shellac, lacquer or varnish, depending on the protection necessary.

   Best of luck,

   -t

1. 
   Keith_Rust | Nov 15, 2000 08:49pm | #2

   *TabThanks for the info. Since I don't have spray equipment I will have to either buy cans of tinted spray lacquer (which I have never used) or use your amber shellac method. Fortunately my client doesn't need a perfect match because she will usually cover the table with a cloth when it's opened up for big family meals.Keith

1. 
   Dave_in_Cairns | Nov 16, 2000 05:31am | #3

   *Keith, when trying to match the patina of old timber , I've found it usefull to fume the new timber with 0.880 ammonia . This has the effect of matching the darkening caused by age. It must , of course, be done prior to any sealing or finishing. I'd be very wary of trying to match using tinted finishes.View Image

1. 
   Keith_Rust | Nov 16, 2000 08:19pm | #4

   *DaveWhat is .880 ammonia?Keith

1. 
   Dave_in_Cairns | Nov 17, 2000 12:11am | #5

   *Keith ,this is the strongest form of ammonia that you can buy. It's a liquid , that gives off fumes which will darken the timber. Check the net for fuming.<img

2. 
   Scott_Braun | Dec 07, 2000 02:49pm | #6

   *Dave, that was hugely irresponsible to recommend fuming without mentioning its dangers!!Keith, fuming is an amazing process which can give results like you've never seen - it's particularly effective with high-tannin woods like white oak. I've done a good amount of fuming, and it's never let me down.HOWEVER, it's very important that you are aware of the dangers inherent in working with straight ammonia. The fumes can KILL you. direct exposure to the fumes can severely damage your eyes. this is not a joke, this is not "this product has been proven dangerous to the DNA in lab rats" - people die. Gustave Stickley used the fuming process to help create the incredible richness and depth on his pieces, but stopped doing it in later years because two of his workers died. There are many articles out there about building little frame and sheeting "fuming tents", or for big projects, I've just rented a truck and let it air out for a day before returning it. And ALWAYS wear goggles and a respirator, even when just opening the bottle.You should try fuming, it's a beautiful effect, but don't walk into it blind, or you'll likely walk out that way....

3. 
   Drew_Nyman | Dec 07, 2000 04:09pm | #7

   *I think the product is also called aqua ammonia. It is available at any janitorial supply store. It is the same thing that will remove milk paint. Forgive me if I missed something but has the finish gotten darker or lighter? It's not unusual for walnut to get lighter with age.

4. 
   Ed_Zappen | Dec 13, 2000 11:15pm | #8

   *matching old walnut...I have been taught by a master of 18th century reproductions that if you leave the walnut out in the sun for about a week, it'l lose that bluish, purplish tint and turn to a nice brown. About 5-9 coats of sed-lac shellac over the top of that ought to give you a nice 80 year old finish. works fo meed

5. 
   Renaldo_dawson | Jan 03, 2001 08:53pm | #9

   *Re Walnut old/new: The walnut used in older production pieces may be kiln dried but not steamed.. Most modern sawmills steam the walnut lumber before the kilning, to produce even distribution of the color for manufacturing... Chosing a grain patern that is similar to the original stock will help the eye to recognize the similarity.. Over time and exposure to lite the leaf may change and bleach out like the orriginal.. otherwise you may have to do some tintomajic to bring quicker resuts..