Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 13, 2005 10:06pm | #1

   Any finish on cherry that matches now, is not likely to match in a year, since your cherry will continue to darken over time.  I'd just go for a nice, as close to natural finish as possible and let the woods contrast. 

   If you feel the need to start darker than natural, I'd use a gel stain.  Since the gel doesn't penetrate deeply it doesn't blotch as much as liquid stains.   

1. 
   ganderwood | Dec 14, 2005 12:46am | #2

   Thanks for the advice.  Simple is better.  I have never worked with cherry before, but I have always admired the patina / darkening that occurs over time.  I need to be more patient.

2. 
   Paul_Snyder | Dec 15, 2005 03:43am | #3

   What steps and products did you use to get a 'perfect match?'

   The wiping marks you see in the factory finish are probably a glaze.

   Paul
   http://www.finishwiz.com

1. 
   ganderwood | Dec 19, 2005 12:47am | #6

   I used an unwaxed shellac for the first coat (1 lb cut).  I followed with a water soluble aniline dye.  Third coat was a 2 lb cut of shellac. Followed by another coat of dye.  Finished with a coat of shellac (2 lb).

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Dec 19, 2005 03:28am | #7

   I don't have any idea how I missed that in your original post... you spelled it out and it's like I didn't even see it. Thanks for patiently repeating yourself.The second coat of dye is the only spot I'd expect that you might have some trouble duplicating the finish on a larger scale (the entertainment center). Applying dye over a sealed surface can be problematic - getting even coverage on all the surfaces is often difficult. It's actually easier to use an oil-base glaze for this step - it will give you more working time and can be fixed if it starts to get tacky on you while you're applying it. A water-base glaze is also an option, but dries faster and you need a good application technique to avoid streaks.I'd do a good size sample with the dye, 1# shellac sealer, then the glaze, then topcoats. The glaze will give you a little different effect than the dye, but you should be able to stay in the same color range/depth.Paul
   http://www.finishwiz.com

1. 
   ganderwood | Dec 19, 2005 05:14am | #8

   Thanks for the advice... I enjoyed visiting your website.  You have provided a wealth of information and good photos.

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Dec 20, 2005 02:12am | #9

   Glad to help and thanks a lot!Paul
   http://www.finishwiz.com

3. 
   knothole | Dec 17, 2005 05:29am | #4

   If you have the time and a place to do it fumeing gives cherry a very nice look and you can make it as dark as you like.

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4. 
   Pondfish | Dec 17, 2005 03:33pm | #5

   Chances are that the commercial finish is a tinted, catalyzed spray lacquer with a glaze finish.  That kind of finish is difficult, if not impossible to match exactly.  Your route with a tinted shellac is the right way to go, but you might want to pre-darken the cherry by sticking it out in the sun for a few days.

   You might also consider a higher cut for the shellac.  A 1# cut is pretty thin; 2# or 3# will build up a finish much quicker.

   Another option is to find a bottle of Zinsser's French polish (a new product, which is an easy way to do a French polish finish).  You could always top it with a few layers of garnet shellac if the color isn't dark enough.

   Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005