I’ve stumbled on to something that seems obvious in hindsight, but I have not found it in any of the books on finishing that I have read. If anyone has a reference, I would be glad to learn of it.
Before I start construction, I sort all my stock and select the candidate boards for the project. Then I apply two or more coats of whatever finish that I am going to use on the exposed face of all the boards. This gives me a good idea of what the figure and tone is going to look like. Then I select adjacent boards, book-match partners, etc. These are laid up dry (not glued or fastened) in various test arrangements of the project until I get the look that I want. Only then do I start construction.
I’m self-taught, so if this is SOP, I apologize for wasting people’s time.
Replies
John,
Considering how thin the veneers on today's hardwood plywood, and the cost, I will sometimes apply a few thinned coats of shellac to hardwood plywood, before whacking it into bite-size pieces, as a means of quick and inexpensive protection.
I can't say that I've ever done so on solid hardwood, not have I ever heard it proposed as a standard practice among any of the instructors or students at school.
-Jazzdogg-
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We do something simular, but instead of finishing we just use mineral spirits. Mineral spirits shows all the figure that the finish will but after 30 seconds or so it is gone. When the finish hardens it could accelerate the wear on your tools if machining is not done.
Mike
Mike,
Yes, I use mineral spirits in the first part of the selection process. It takes me (in my feeble years) many minutes to make up my mind about what arrangement of the boards looks best. By then the mineral spirits has faded.
Just my opinion, I might be wrong.
try turpintine or another less volitile solvent. It will last longer.
Mikeplease excuse my spelling.
John,
The mineral spirits solution just doesn't cut it for me. Too many times when I apply the polish little dimples appear indicating I haven't sanded or planed or scraped enough..very frustrating. Currently I'm approaching the finishing stage on two maple end tables with tapered legs. Between the figure, underlying stripes, etc. I'm very concerned that the wood is appropriate prepared...but other than close examination I can't think of a way to expose flaws before finishing...sigh!
BG,
You have described another advantage to this partly-finish-then-build approach. If there are any spots of residual glue or other finish-ruining defects, they will show up before the project is built. It's generally a lot easier to fix these defects on loose boards than on an assembled project.
I hadn't thought of it before, but yellow glue doesn't stick very well to finished surfaces. So squeeze-out is easy to clean up there.
However, as I said in a response to Mike, I start with a mineral spirits wipe for initial sorting. It's when I get to the final selection and arrangement that I find the partly-finished boards are easier to evaluate. I've been known to let an assembly sit for days before deciding that it has the look that I want.
Hope your project turns out fine.
Edited 7/23/2005 2:10 pm ET by John Huber
John,
With experience you will be able to "see" it more and more without actually doing it, certainly when using wood species you are familiar with. I find I rarely need to do this, but when in doubt I just wipe on some turpentine or other thinner. It gives the effect without getting in the way.
DR
I used to buy boards wide enough for the project at hand.
4 legs usually requires 8/4 x 10" stock. I cut up stock for 3 beds yesterday I have lots of offcuts 8/4 x 12"+ x 15" (for short tables) and some x 32" (for tall tables).
Tabletops require 8/4 x 12-20" (resawn and bookmatched) stock (or 6/4 x 15" stock).
Now I buy whole logs (sawn and dried). 150-200bdft from a single log (or board) is enough for a couple large projects or a bunch of small ones.
John,
I sometimes spend what seems like hours standing boards on end outside my garage shop, then laying the on sawhorses to get a good look at them in different light and at different angles. While doing this, I mark any knots or blemishes I want to avoid and transfer the marks to both sides of the board. As I'm looking at them, I begin to mark them for the specific parts; i.e., top, legs, apron, etc.
As others have said, use mineral spirits or something similar to show the grain pattern better. If I'm uncertain how a group of boards will match, I'll wipe them with MS or a very light MS/BLO mix, like about 3/1. Since I start the finish process with oil to pop the grain, it gives me a good idea of the final appearance and the oil won't damage my machines.
Good planning will reduce the 'gotchas' along the way.
Regards,
Bill Arnold - Custom Woodcrafting
Mensa Member
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Any glance at the gallery here should tell you that what you are doing isn't done often enough. There are plenty of pieces with expertly executed joinery that miss the mark in my opinion because not enough thought is given to the wood itself either its patterns or its coloration.
Hello Michael,
Thanks for your support. Without criticizing anyone specifically, what you say is true. Perhaps one of the problems is that most people buy just enough wood to do the project, which gives them little chance to select and match. I generally buy at least 20% more wood than I will need. And I try to do several similar projects and buy all the wood together. That way I tend to get more book-matched boards. The odd pieces are used as secondary wood on the interior.
Back to the shop and making sawdust...
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