Replies

1. 
   camel | Sep 04, 2002 08:54am | #1

     Hey Don.  I'm just assuming you're working with rough sawn as I do.  If for example my top is 36" by 60".  I'll first determine what's an width per board that will divide into the total width of the top.  This case being 6" per board.  Instead of searching for 6 approximately 6.5"-7"  60" boards, I would look for 3, 11'-12' nice looking boards that match considerably close, you can always find them with some shuffling and patience.  Then each 11-12' board I'd cut in half and so on.  What I'm trying to say is it's easier to find 3 boards to match in color and grain that 6 individual ones.  I just had to do this today.  It's what I've always done and works good for me.  I'm not good at explaning stuff, so I hope you see what I'm trying to say.  Good luck.....John E. Nanasy.

2. 
   RSRose | Sep 04, 2002 08:56am | #2

   Donny,

   If you take what someone gives you, then you've got what they give you. And it's unlikely that there will be any match at all. If you look at a lot of cheap or even mid-price furniture, especially oak, that's exactly what you'll find. Wood from many sources all in the same piece.

   To get matching grain, you either have to get consecutively cut veneer pieces, consecutively cut boards from the log or resaw your lumber into veneer and lay the veneers down in order to achieve either a book match or slip match.

   Even large lumber yards can't keep boards in consecutive order, unless you can get them from the drying stack where they have been stacked in order of cut from the mill. And yes, you search for what you want. If you only buy small amounts, this may not be possible. It's all in the relationship you have with the lumber yard or shop. They will give their best customers the best access to choices.

   But getting lumber all from the same log will not really give matching grain because the thickness of the boards will result in significant change in grain from the top of one board to the top of the next. It may ensure consistent color. True grain matching is only possible using veneer.

   Rich

3. 
   Lilshaver | Sep 05, 2002 05:17am | #3

   I've made table tops with both methods and several in between. Lately I can break my methodology down into two methods. The first is off your topic.....a veneered top. I will start slicing one board into the veneer thickness that I want then match the slices to get a very uniform and repeating pattern. One can do this and get a solid wood top if you can get consecutively sawn boards.

   The other method is to select boards at the supplier that seem to have something in common. This is totally a subjective evaluation on my part. I look for figure, knots, sapwood/heartwood ratio, and color. I will buy at least fifty percent more lumber than the top needs. Then at the shop I start to match the boards up. I use white chalk to block out the areas I like and to keep things organized. It is not unusual for me to reject several feet off the end or ends of a board and only use the middle. I try to keep the figure flowing from one board and the next. I will use any width board and often saw one to half width and put the two halves in different areas of the top. I look to create some cohesiveness within the top. (Imagine a bunch of strangers that you invite to a party. Your job as host is to make them all feel comfortable. You have to pay attention to whom you have sitting next to whom.)

   It might take me half a day to simply lay out the stock for the top. It is a puzzle that's answer is only revealed when I see it. I believe that this method is the best way to create a table top that reflects the maker's aesthetic. You will find a different answer than anyone else, so it will be your table. Oh yea...a personal preference......I flip the boards any which way I want (growth rings up or down). The visual impact is why I take so much time so why compromise that with some other consideration that can be dealt with with structure?

1. 
   Biscardi | Sep 05, 2002 07:43am | #4

   I made a desk top once of bookmatched, highly figured walnut. I had worked on the piece for nearly a year (ball and claw feet, handcut dovetails, carvings, cockbeading). I grudgingly spent an extra $5 a bf for these wide, bookmatched spectacular boards. The end result was wonderful and in this case extravagant wood on the presentation surface was worth it.