Replies

1. 
   Quartersawn | Oct 19, 2005 05:19am | #1

   The problem you face is that you are trying to match years of patina with a fresh finish.  The patina on older white oak funiture is the result of several factors, notably, oxidation of the wood to a gold tone from the original fleshy-white, and aging of the topcoat, which is some form of oil-based finish that has turned amber with age.  Of course there is also a stain or fumed color added by the original finisher.  The following steps can result in a finish that looks many decades old, if you want it to,

   I would recommend that you obtain some white oak for experimentation.  The oxidation of the wood will be recreated with an analine dye, probably a gold-to-orange tone.  Follow the dried dye coat with an oil like Watco to deepen the natural contrast in the grain and rays of the wood.  At this point, you need to apply a gel stain that will fill the pores of the oak and dramatically effect the color of the wood.  This will probably be a very dark walnut -to- mahogany colored stain, depending on how much red is in the original finish, if any.  At this point your finish is about 90% of what it will look like when you are done.  If you are not close to the original, the dye and or the stain are the wrong colors.  If you like the result, apply a second thick coat of gel stain and let it dry for 10-15 minutes.  This stage will allow you to recreate the grime of aging.  Wipe of the excess stain in the obvious areas.  This is called glazing.

   As a top coat, I would use a light spray of shellac or lacquer, followed by a coat of a good English wax applied with 0000 steel wool.  Apply wax to the entire piece and buff with an old bath towel.  This gives you a luster of polished wood as opposed  to a shiny applied finish.

   If the resulting finish is too dark or too muddy,  use a light spray of shellac after the Watco oil step to act as a barrier to the gel stain,  Allow appropriate drying times between coats and some light sanding of dust nibs.  I do not recommend sanding the bare wood top to more than 220 grit, because the oak needs to be able to absorb the finish. 

   You may have to invest in several colors of stain and dye to get to the right tones, but you will find many uses for the materials to future projects.  I wouldn't work on the table top until you are satisfied with the look of your sample. I finish all of my arts and crafts pieces with essentially this same technique.  They range from a honey toned through reddish browns to very dark brown.  The dye has the biggest impact on the final color.  Many recognized finishers like Jeff Jewitt do something similar when they finish white oak and want an aged look.

1. 
   darboux | Oct 19, 2005 03:25pm | #2

   Thank you, Quartersawn,

   This was exactly the kind of information I was looking for. I have done all of my testing on scraps of QS White Oak from other projects and I do not intend to start the table until I know what I am going to do with the finish, as you suggest. I have used most, if not all, of the products you recommend in various projects over the years, but do not have any experience in using them in combination as you recommend. So thank you very much.

1. 
   Quartersawn | Oct 20, 2005 12:39am | #3

   If you could post a photo of the table and be fairly sure that the color was close to actual, I might be able to suggest a "recipe".  Q-sawn looks absolutely stunning when finished this way.  Keep in mind that the top's patina (dings, wear,etc) should match the rest when done.  You may want to consider doing the whole table.  Oak is easy to strip, and then you don't have to match anything.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Nov 04, 2005 08:25pm | #4

   Only a part of the darkening you see is from the finish on the top.  The first thing in refinishing this top is to chemically strip it.  NO SANDPAPER (or only the lightest 220 grit BY HAND if there is any grain raised by the stripper.)   If you can carefully strip the top you will preserve much of the patina in the wood itself, and the refinished top will likely require only small amounts of added color.  Sure you may still have a few of the old dings or spots, but the only thing you thought necessary to complain about in the original post was the stickiness.  Those small defects are part of the character. 

1. 
   darboux | Nov 05, 2005 05:08pm | #5

   Thank you, Steve. I have tried the suggestions made by Quartersawn on scrap pieces of unfinished QS White Oak and find that I can get the color match I am looking for. I have not yet had the time to start on the actual table. Your advice comes at a good time. I had planned to sand, but what you say make good sense. I will follow your advice and test my coloration/finish on one of the table leaves before going on to the actual table.

   Daryl

2. 
   Quartersawn | Nov 06, 2005 06:39pm | #6

   I think Steve's advice is good, as well.  Patina is three dimensional and preserving as much of it as possible would enhance the final project.  Did I mention using a good wax on the whole table after everything in thoroughly dry?  I buff it out with an old towel and then bring the shine down with 0000 steel wool, if necessary.

3. 
   darboux | Nov 09, 2005 05:14pm | #7

   I have an excellent final finishing process that is well practiced and it does include the wax you mention. I appreciate your mentioning it though. I have postponed the project until after Thanksgiving because we will need the table. Now that I have the right information and have sampled the approach, I am anxious to get started. Thanks again.

   Daryl