I am cutting quarter rounds on the edge of MDF boards. I will be painting the boards flat black enamel subsequently then applying a gloss Lacquer. After a little experimentation on some scrap pieces, it became clear that I needed to seal the cut portions of the MDF, or a difference was noticeable once the gloss finish was applied.
So I used what was at hand, shellac. It works to a degree, requiring several coats with sanding in between.
So here are my questions
- Should I be concerned with having shellac as a base beneath the enamel?
- Should I be concerned with covering the enamel with Lacquer?
- By concerned I mean later issues with disassociation of the different layers.
Or is there a better material for sealing the MDF than shelac?
Edited 12/21/2007 5:40 pm ET by Bioman
Replies
1. Should I be concerned with having shellac as a base beneath the enamel?
No. But use a de-waxed shellac. Shellac is an excellent base to ANY subsequent top coats. It has superb adherence to the substrate, and most overcoats will adhere very well to it as long as there is no wax in the shellac.
2. Should I be concerned with covering the enamel with Lacquer?
Yes. Not a good choice.
3. By concerned I mean later issues with disassociation of the different layers.
No to #1, yes to #2
Rich
Rich, my final coat will be Lacquer. As far as black paint goes, iwhat would be a better choice under the Lacquer? I went for the enamal and Lacquer as I can get both of them in a spray can. My HVLP is on the fritz so I am kind of limited to the materials I can spray by what is in a can off the shelf.
Bioman,Sorry, I may be misunderstanding. I always think of enamel as a gloss surface, that's why I replied "no" to lacquer over it. But if the black paint is a flat coat, there should be no problem at all with lacquer over it.But I would recommend sealing the MDF with joint compound or bondo, sanding, then a lacquer sanding sealer then gloss black lacquer. The joint compound or bondo may be overkill, as MDF can be tooled and sanded very fine if it is high quality.Do you have a good paint store in your area? A few minutes with a knowledgeable salesman could be a great help. I am partial to Sherwyn Williams as I like their products and I have never been disappointed with advice I have received there. You could probably get pointers on dealing with that substrate and recommendations for companion lacquer products (sealer, top coat) that would save a lot of trial and error.Rich
Bioman,
Spray can lacquer and spray can enamel may not be compatible. If you must do it this way you should test first. If it were me, I would stick to just lacquer.
Ask me how I know this....
-Nazard
Thanks guys, solid advise! Appreciated.
Why not just get some black lacquer? My local paint shop just adds pigment to their clear lacquers and bob's my uncle. You can also get black lacquer aerosols in a (small) variety of sheens.
HVLP on fritz. However, I think I found a local store that has semi-gloss Lacquer in spray cans. I can do a final clear top cote of gloss to give me the final appearance I want. So I think I'm good to go.
Not so fast there Bio. If lacquer is like varnish it is made in to semi-gloss or satin by the addition of flatting agents, in other words little particles suspended in the finish that scatter the light. Once these are on the project it doesn't matter what your final coat is they will still be there dutifully doing there job of light refraction and keeping the finish from being a full gloss.
You can't find a spray can of gloss black lacquer? I just bought one at HD last week to spray some wooden knobs for an apothecary chest I am making. Even the local hardware store carries it.
Rob
Good point.
I'll check, the clerk on the phone said semi-gloss.
Also tried the ussual suspects; Sherwin Williams et al, none had anything....odd.
A large paint supplier that does a lot of business with local cabinet contractors and finish carpenters is the kind you're looking for.Rich
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