Hi Folks,
I am helping to make some map dispenser boxes (approx. 15) for a group of cities in our area. These will be located at the trail heads of the local rails-to-trails paths and hold maps to the trail system. They are about the size of a birdhouse.
For insect- and rot-resistance (neglecting, for the moment, baseball bat- and fire-resistance), we are interested in using a composite material like those use on decks (the name Trex has surfaced). We are actually making kits, so the local Boy Scout troop can assemble them (as part of a young man’s Eagle Scout project), so we will cut and pre-drill panels. Something that comes in a 3/4 x 6 and 3/4 x 8, or perhaps a 1/2 to 3/4 thick panel would be best to avoid resawing.
My questions are:
1) Do any of you in the group have suggestions on composite materials?
2) If yes, what glue would you use with this material?
3) Do you know of any web or franchised suppliers that we might be able to find in our area (25 miles north of Detroit)?
4) If not composite, what natural wood would you suggest?
Thank you very much,
Lawrie
Replies
4) If not composite, what natural wood would you suggest?
don't have a clue on the other three, but walnut would be a good choice for a weather resistant species - - if you want to come down to north central Indiana, I'll give you enough for your project...
Most of that composite decking material isn't suitable for building anything but decks. Alot of it isn't a solid board, but a thin top with structural ridges underneath. 'not alot of fun to work with, either.
I'd really vote in favor of using wood. Which one sorta depends on where you live. Here in the Northwest, I'd use Western Red Cedar; e.g., that's what every birdhouse and bathouse around here is built from.
If I was in California, I'd use redwood. In the Southeast, Cypress, I guess.
For a non-composite, my vote would be for Ipe. It's tough on tools, but since you're going to pre-cut and drill, the scouts shouldn't have any problem. It's holds up very well for outside use. Public Lumber (7-Mile & I-75) usually has 1x6 Ipe decking - not sure about 1x8. There may be others a little closer if you call around but you'll probably do better searching under decks or hardwood suppliers - normal lumber yards probably wont have it. Gluing it can be problematic. You need good epoxy or maybe polyurethane glue. Personally I'd just skip the glue and rely on screws. You DO have to pay attention to proper screw hole pilot sizes tho or you'll twist the screw heads off trying to drive them. you can also skip finishing too which is just as well, since not all finishes will work on it.
Waddaya mean it wont fit through the door?
In my state, which happens to be the Pine Tree State, the Fish and Game Department as well as campgrounds, State Parks and the like, use white pine. The various boxes all look similar and are stained with a solid color dark brown. We don't have termites.
Some of the youth type projects are nesting boxes for various birds and ducks. White pine, unfinished, is the preferred material. The boxes are all mounted on posts and have slanted roof boards. There isn't much of an issue with rotting. Some insects find them comfortable but they would likely use them regardless of the material. The abundance of white pine, it's ease of workability and repair as well as the fact it is cheap if not free, makes it a good choice. Glue isn't used and most construction is nailed. Youngsters have a hard time with screws.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
try PVC foam panels. They cut & machine like MDF, can be glued & screwed, and painted, fairly durable, as well, come in 4x8 sheets. Last time I purchased, 1/2" was 108/sht.
Cedar would hold up well.
Pressure treated lumber - but make sure it's not the nasty Cyanide treated kind (you can't even buy it in MA anymore not sure about the rest of the country.)
Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
No, you can't buy it anywhere, except for industrial use. The old stuff, by the way, was treated with aresenic, not cyanide. Not that either one is good... The new stuff, ACQ, has a high copper content and is corrosive to non-copper metals. Fasteners must be copper, bronze, hot-dipped galvanized, or stainless steel.
The blue-bird houses I've done in CT as Scout projects were white pine. They're designed to shed water, and so far have survived 5 years with no visible rot.
AndyAndy Engel
Senior editor, Fine Woodworking magazine
Other people can talk about how to expand the destiny of mankind. I just want to talk about how to fix a motorcycle. I think that what I have to say has more lasting value. --Robert M. Pirsig
I new it was nasty stuff - Thanks for the correction.
Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
Eagle Scout project! Gee.. They should be able to pick their own wood AND plans by by now! LOL
Sorry I had to
By the way, PINE is not that expensive and works for awhile outside.. Several years?
Edited 4/25/2005 3:48 pm ET by Will George
I would use polycarbonite sheet. It will survive all but fire.
Joe Phillips
Plastics pay the bills, Woodworking keeps me sane!
Hi,
Many of the woods I saw recommended are rot and insect resistant, but are very susceptible to bats...the baseball bats you referred to. Cedar, pine, cypress are are very soft, even fragile when hit by rocks or sticks. I would take a look at the May issue of American Woodworker. They have numerous sources for plastic and composites "lumber". They have numerous colors.
Here are the plastic only websites they referenced:
http://www.americanecoboard.com
http://www.plasticlumberyard.com
http://www.plasticlumber.com
http://www.plasticboards.com
http://www.taylorsplasticlumber.com
Two composite sites:
http://www.evergrain.com
http://www.timbertech.com
I am a wood fanatic, but in your case the no/low maintenance aspect and durability of plastic seems like the best choice.
Ken
Regards,
Ken
"Do as you would be done by." C.S. Lewis
Of course, you could always build a mold and fill it with concrete - they would be "bat" resistant then... :-)Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
The only "bat resistant" material I've found is heavy-guage steel. That's what my mail box is made of, having learned the hard way over the years.
Lawrie,
If you are willing to paint them, I would use MDO (Medium Density Overlay) plywood. It is assembled with adhesives that will stand up to the weather, and is faced with a treated paper product that provides a great surface for painting. MDO is what many exterior signs are made from. Any exterior adhesive with weatherproof properties would work fine.
Good luck,
-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
Thanks to all for the information and suggestions.
Lawrie
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled