Replies

1. 
   saschafer | Feb 13, 2008 01:59am | #1

   Yes, you can glue MDF with ordinary Titebond. Run some sandpaper over the edges to avoid having any rough corners get in the way. Get a bunch of books or bricks or other weights for clamping. Wipe off the mating surfaces with a clean cloth, and apply a thin film of glue to both sides (a roller works best). Put the pieces together, and apply pressure in the center first to avoid trapping any air pockets, then work your way to the edges. Trim to final size after the glue is dry.

   -Steve

    

2. 
   flairwoodworks | Feb 13, 2008 07:49am | #2

   You do realize that 5/8" + 5/8" = 1-1/4", not 1", right?

   Chris @ flairwoodworks

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

3. 
   chabber | Feb 13, 2008 10:44am | #3

   I know this is not one of the glues you have, but contact cement works well to glue MDF sheets together. I have made several benchtops from MDF and used contact cement each time. Never had any problems. I believe it is very common way for making countertops as well. Just brush or roll it on. I use the product from Weldwood. One product by them stinks real bad and the other doesn't. Make sure you have real good ventilation.

   Josh

4. 
   integrity_woodworks | Feb 13, 2008 07:14pm | #4

   1" mdf is avalible ask your local supplier.

1. 
   lynnroy | Feb 14, 2008 12:19am | #5

   Not in tulsa, Ok.  At least not at the public lumber yards. 

1. 
   integrity_woodworks | Feb 14, 2008 06:46pm | #6

   lynnroy

   here in Vancouver B.C there is a place called team wood traders, which is ironic as the only thing they don,t sell is wood. but they mostlly sell laminites mdf upto 11/2" but you must ask for it it is kept in the wharehouse not on the self as it is an specialty item. I would think there is some kind of laminate supplier in Tulsa ? there are cabinet shops in your area are,nt there ? if so I'm sure that they don't shop at home depot. call around , surelly there is somthing like this & they should have mdf glue as well ,as teamwood does & 70% of there stock comes from the states.  good luck

   Dan

   Edited 2/14/2008 10:48 am ET by woodguydan

1. 
   lynnroy | Feb 14, 2008 11:32pm | #7

   Thanks again Dan.  You sure know your stuff.

1. 
   integrity_woodworks | Feb 15, 2008 12:07am | #8

   the funny thing is in my 20 so years of woodworking ,I have always refused to work  with the stuff, I only use it for push sticks/tablesaw inserts /jigs (things I will end up throwing out). But one time a freind of mine who makes urethane stamps for stamping concrete needed staple tables for his factory that would hold tons of weight & not stick. a cabinet builder buddy of mine loves the stuff(mdf) & turned me on to this place /fit the bill,or build prefect ,ha ha. I also found out they had it in 5'/16'sheets ,A 1" sheetweighs 200 pounds(never again ) his tables are 5'/12/11/2".  thanks & again best of luck!

   Dan

   Edited 2/14/2008 4:09 pm ET by woodguydan

   Edited 2/14/2008 4:10 pm ET by woodguydan

5. 
   jonathan12340 | Feb 15, 2008 06:15am | #9

   Any PVA glue will work, and it seals the glue line, unlike contact adhesive.
   The caution I would give is that the industrial grade mdf sold at most home centers is not the same as commercial grade mdf, I am sure FWW must have an article on this. My caution would be that you will see a strip as the outer edges of the two boards will be denser. That being said the industrial grade material is not a dense as the commercial grade so the porous edge issue will be magnified. If you are willing to fiddle with the finish then there should be no issue, as stated be other starting oversized and cutting it down would be best. I would use more than just bricks and books, you can make a good sized sandwich clamping 8-10 sets with good clamps.
   If you are just painting these than filling the edge with plaster and priming with an oil primer would be fine.

   Hope this helps! Jonathan