Replies

1. 
   joinerswork | Jun 13, 2004 04:56am | #1

   MWINKLE,

   I'm shocked, SHOCKED!

   Are you questioning Norm's decisions?  Heresy!

   Har,

   Ray

2. 
   Dave45 | Jun 13, 2004 05:09am | #2

   Norm must be smoking herbs, or something.  I would only use MDF for drawer sides if I was using an undermount drawer glide - or if the drawer only got opened once or twice per decade. - lol

1. 
   jimmyk | Jun 14, 2004 02:13am | #5

   I've done dozens of drawer sides from 1/2" MDF and I've never had a failure. Sure, it's not "fine" woodworking, but how often is utility, linen and pantry cabinets "fine" woodworking? MDF is an excellent material when used correctly. I wish more woodworkers would embrace it instead of snubbing it.

3. 
   SgianDubh | Jun 13, 2004 07:37am | #3

   I've lost count of the number of drawers I've made out of MDF. It's just as good as any other board material for that kind of drawer, i.e., any board material drawer mounted on a slide.

   I wouldn't use it if the top and bottom edge of the MDF drawer box were the runners. It's too wooly, soft, and sticky, but you could add a hardwood lipping for the top and bottom edge in that scenario. I don't see much point in doing that-- it would look odd and you may as well make a solid wood side which would look better, but technically it could be done. Slainte.

   RJFurniture

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Jun 14, 2004 01:57am | #4

   Sgian --

     What do you do for corner joinery when you use MDF for drawer sides (and, I'm presuming, front and back, too)?   And do you paint the drawers or otherwise cover up the MDF?

1. 
   SgianDubh | Jun 14, 2004 07:36am | #6

   Jamie, I've  usually used a tongue and housing (dado) with the housing in the side and the tongue in the front and back, and yes the box and bottom are all MDF with a planted front of something more attractive. I've almost always used 12mm (1/2") thick stuff with slides and 3/8" screws, but once or twice I've used 15mm thick, but that thickness looks clunkier than I like really-- which applies to all that type of drawer box for me.

   True, the cut joint is weak, but once it's all glued together I've found them more than strong enough for utilitarian items-- work boxes, toolcabinet drawers, cheap furniture, etc..

   For a stack of drawer boxes you can work the tongue and housing on  wide pieces with a router and side fence, and rip the resultant parts into the requisite width later to suit the drawer heights. Very fast and efficient, but I grant they aren't the worlds prettiest drawers. Slainte.

   PS. Edit. Forgot to say about finishing Jamie. I've always left them bare, or quickly gashed on some pre-cat lacquer or similar with a spray gun. That's more than good enough for drawers of this visual delicacy, ha, ha.

   RJFurniture

   Edited 6/14/2004 2:30 am ET by Sgian Dubh

4. 
   mudman | Jun 14, 2004 10:03pm | #7

   I've lost count of how many MDF drawers I've repaired, 30 or 40 in the last 3 years (not a lot of time). These drawers were all mass produced, joined with rabbits, staples, and little or no glue. I think that IF I were to use MDF mine would last longer because I would use more glue and rabbit and dado joinery. However. I use Birch Ply for all my drawers, or Poplar. I use that difference as a selling point to my customers.

     I am curious if there is any reason that MDF is better than Ply, aside from cost. I know that MDF is more stable but I've never had a warping problem, so what other reason could there be? All it takes is a bottle of shampoo, cooking oil, childs finger paint jar or other liquid and MDF is wasted. I see swollen and split drawer sides in bathrooms all the time.

   Mike

   please excuse my spelling.
1. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 15, 2004 06:44am | #8

   If you're making your own, I really can't imagine why anyone would use MDF (presumably 1/2") for drawer stock. You can get a lot of drawers out of a $25 sheet of Baltic Birch.

2. 
   mwinkle | Jun 16, 2004 12:04am | #9

   Thanks for the response- you helped confirm my feelings aabout MDF for drawers. 

3. 
   jackplane | Jun 16, 2004 10:44pm | #10

   Like you , I use a cabinet grade ply or solid wood for drawers. However, MDF has it's place- it can be routed to a clean edge,something which cannot be done with ply, and used for paint grade trim.

1. 
   mudman | Jun 17, 2004 07:00am | #11

   Don't get me wrong I use a lot of MDF. It is great for paint grade archectual work that has a lot of machining. It makes the best raised panel ever, and is the best choice for a veneer core. I just never use it where there could be water. I am bidding on replacing 1300 feet of 3 piece baseboard because MDF was used as the flat stock. The maid ruined it all over 4 or 5 years of mopping.

   MIkeplease excuse my spelling.