Replies

1. 
   Seth_Frankel_ | Feb 21, 2002 05:03pm | #1

   *
   Hugues,

   I guess the question is what are you doing and what are you protecting it from/for?

   Some more detail and I'm sure people will have suggestions.

   Best,
   Seth

1. 
   Steve_Schefer | Feb 21, 2002 10:14pm | #2

   *Hughes, a marine grade spar varnish is the best thing you can use. Moisture is what will cause the most damage to the edges.

1. 
   Hugues_Marier | Feb 22, 2002 05:35am | #3

   *I only intend to paint that MDF and I don't want the edges to look grainy (differents form the surface). Hugues.

1. 
   Mike_Maines | Feb 22, 2002 04:21pm | #4

   *Steve, can you safely paint over the spar varnish?I've used vinyl spackle to fill the edges before painting. Just be sure to get rid of any excess before it sets, as it sets hard.

1. 
   Bill_Duckworth | Feb 22, 2002 06:55pm | #5

   *For painted MDF edges I've always gotten great results by priming the edges first (with Kilz or B.I.N), rolled or spayed on, then using my bare hands and fingers to squeegee the edges with drywall compound. After that dries, sand it down with 150-grit, and hit the edges again with another coat of primer.

2. 
   Steve_Schefer | Feb 22, 2002 07:09pm | #6

   *Mike, I don't know, never tried it. I did hear about another way though. A finish carpenter buddy of mine mixes the sawdust from the cuts with hide glue and then pushes it into the edge surface. When it dries it sands smooth as a babys bottom.

2. 
   Alan | Apr 08, 2002 11:26pm | #7

   Hugues,

   This may sound weird but for the edges of MDF, ply and particle board that I plan to paint I've used good old Bondo:  i.e. auto body filler/putty.  It's a two part mix that has great open time, is easily shaped or removed before it sets up and sands easily after it sets up.  If you get to it when it is just right--before it sets up all the way, you can shape or level it with Surform tools or the like--and it's just like grating cheese.  Once set it is durable and takes paint exceptionally well.  I've even used it on the hull of a sailboat I made--absolutely no problems with its being waterproof (though the boat was trailered and not left in the water).  You can also play with the ratio of the two parts and make it either harder or more elastic.

   Alan

1. 
   PlaneWood | Apr 09, 2002 12:30am | #8

   Hughes -

   I've used Bondo for several applications.  Sealing ply endgrain, and, filling voids under veneers and laminants, to name a few.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood

3. 
   Mongo | Apr 09, 2002 01:05am | #9

   I use Bartley's Paste Pore Filler.

   Brush it on with an acid brush, let it dry about 24 hours, then take it down with sandpaper. Goes on quite fast, sands quickly, and gives a superior, glass-smooth finish.