Replies

1. 
   LeeEschen | Jun 04, 2003 09:43am | #1

   MDF is a very practicle alternative benchtop. Woodsmith/Shopnotes magazines each did workbench articles in the last year or so using a three layer MDF top. I plan on building one once my soon to be new shop building is complete.

   Two pieces of MDF, cut to 32" width x your your desired length, make up the two uppermost layers and the two 16" cutoffs together make up the bottom layer. Do the glue-up with the top inverted, starting with the topmost at finished size. Cut the other layers slightly oversize to ensure that it fully covers the prior layer and use a long flush trimming router bit to even up the edges of each oversize layer as you go.

   Edged with hardwood, or even Doug fir, 2x4, splined to the MDF sandwich, and finished with a wiping varnish, you should wind up with a truly fine workbench.

   Good luck! Post pix when you're done.

   --

   Lee in Cave Junction, Oregon

   Gateway to the Oregon Caves

1. 
   woodman300 | Jun 05, 2003 08:23pm | #8

   I made my workbench from MDF also. I glued two sheets together, 24 inches wide and 8' long. I laminated the top with some plastic laminate and used oak banding for the front and sides and made a six inch high backslpash. It looks good and is durable and flat. It is more a full service bench and less a woodworkers bench. I haven't yet installed the vise or made the holes for the dogs.

2. 
   Jeff | Jun 04, 2003 01:20pm | #2

   Wanabe

   I have a large bench top made from a full 4x8 sheet of MDF with a

   sheet of Birch ply for the top. No cutting or sizing, just used as

   is.

   When the top gets messed up, I'll just flip it over giving me a new

   top again.

   I'd have reversed it and used the MDF for the top (or just 2 MDF

   sheets) if I wanted the table to act as the outfeed table for a saw.

   The MDF slides great (I use a piece for my Table saws output) so I

   think you'll find this works very well.

   I didn't glue mine, so I could flip it.

   Good luck

   Jeff

3. 
   DeskJockey | Jun 04, 2003 04:03pm | #3

   Wanabe,

   I just finished a bench where I used mdf for the top.  It works great.  Its slick enough to use as an outfeed table, its flat and dense enought to use as a workbench, and its cheap enough to rout slot tracks and do all your glue ups and small finishing jobs on.  I wish I had the time, money, and space for one of those beutiful benches that you see often on this forum, but the function that I gain with this one makes up for it.  By framing it with hardwood you can attach drop down extention tables and other accessories.  I have a drop down router table attached to mine, it works great. 

   I don't know what kind of base you are planning, but I used the plans from an American Woodworker Issue, and pulled the whole thing, including vices, together in a day.  

   Good luck.

   Jon

4. 
   Len | Jun 04, 2003 08:48pm | #4

   I just tore out a bench that was made of MDF. It worked great as a utility/assembly bench but not very well as a wood working bench. I tried to use round and square dogs on it but found that they distorted the holes under pressure. You might want to consider a insert of maple where you intend to put the dogs. The lag bolts holding the vises worked loose as well after a time. I should have used carriage bolts and nuts.

   Since I have to rebuild, I bought a solid maple top from a local lumber yard. It cost $230 for a 7' x 2' x 1-3/4" slab. A lot more money than MDF. I will build an assembly bench with a MDF top

    Enjoy,

   Len

1. 
   BertJ | Jun 05, 2003 09:44pm | #9

   Several years ago I inherited a bench made of red oak with 8/4 legs. Not pretty but very simple and useful for sanding, glue and assembly work, etc. For a novice like me it has been useful. With a couple of dog holes and a good vice, it does servicable work in the shop, but clearly not of a quality to stand up to hand planing, mortising and other higher skill woodworking techniques.

   My observation with this thread is those who progress to serious hand work and precision joinery will likely move up to a hardwood behemoth that will be handed down from generation to generation. The rest of us will make do with our MDF or pine or whathaveyou, oblivious to the joys of a real workbench.

   BJ

5. 
   RANGERP75R | Jun 05, 2003 04:59am | #5

   wanabe

      Go for it! I just recently added a sheet of MDF over my recovered oak flooring table-top. Cut the dog holes to match the ones on the oak underneath. Made longer pinned dogs to slide through the MDF holes into the oak holes. This eliminates the problem Len mentioned.

      Do I like it? I can get stain and paint on it. I can scratch it, dent it and abuse it. I can put potting soil on top and grow tomatoes. ha..ha.. I love it. I wish I had done it years ago.

      The bad news is it isn't pretty like the original top. The good news is I don't worry about messing it up. It can be replaced quickly and for under $10. The bottom line is it works like a charm.

   Luck...
   sarge..jt

6. 
   Manchild | Jun 05, 2003 05:55pm | #6

   I'm going to be building an out feed table for my table saw and plan to use it part time for an assembly table. I'm thinking that an 8' sheet would allow for sheet goods to be fed past the blade with room to spare. The side to the left of blade and the right of blade is a little less finalized for me. I have an old powermatic shop saw with no fence and am not sure how long a right of blade fence I should buy. The Biesemeyer and delta don't have a rear clamp/hold down so these are two of my choices. I want a continuos out feed with no gap. I want use a large crosscut sliding table also. I'm planning on sawing the slab to bring in dust extraction, power, air pressure and maybe a few more pipes just for good measure under the slab. So, how long of a fence do I buy? Does Biesemeyer have more accessories for special operations? I like the way the Delta fence can slide out to accept a longer/ different one for straight edging stock. Maybe a brochure on the two of them is in order. This thing is getting real big and I'm concerned about weight. The last job I was on they used industrial rated mdf. Would it be a good idea to use the higher rated mdf on the out feed portion only? It was real slippery. Would hem fir 2x4s' be a good choice for the frame?

   I know I have asked a lot of questions and the issue is big, but I'm new to the forum and have been wanting this setup for a long time. We bought this house so I could have a shop in the 2 garage and I have some money set aside for the setup.

1. 
   Jeff | Jun 05, 2003 06:03pm | #7

   David

   The Beisemeyer is great for this. The back rail is made for supporting an outfeed table.

   I'm sorry to say that accessories are pretty much non existant.

   They only have 2 fence accessries available.

   I drilled and tapped my fence on top to take jigs. It's easy to do

   on a drill press.

   MDF makes a great outfeed table, weighs a ton.

   As for Hemlock for frame, I'm not sure about that, I use oak.

   Can't tell you anything personal about the Unifence, haven't use one

   in alot of years.

   Some people like the Mule Accufence.

   You might want to check the archives.

   Hope that helps.

   Jeff