Anybody here use MDF for making table saw throatpates/zero-clearance inserts?
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Replies
I made several mdf throat plates, they work fine.I had 3/4" mdf so I had to rabbit 1/4x1/2" around the edges for the plate to sit level. My metal insert is 1/2" deep.
I rip the correct width, bandsaw the rounds. You could use a router with a top bearing bit for an exact fit. If your insert screws down at each corner, you make the insert a bit shallow. Put a dap of silicone caulk or gasket forming stuff (forgot the name) and when it is fully setup screw the insert down until it is even with the table. The sealant will compress when the insert is screwed down.
mike
The sealant will compress when the insert is screwed down...
DANG why did I not think of that???
I went and put leaveling screws in there... geeeee.. (In the table cut-out that is...)
yes.
I use 1/2" MDF, make 4-6 blanks at a time. Mine fit 1/32" shy of the table.
Joe
Not to divert you -- if you want to use MDF I see no reason why not -- but there are other good materials you could consider.
I read on another forum a post suggesting 3/8" baltic with high pressure laminate (e.g. Formica) on both sides to bring it to final thickness. I've been using 3/8" bb for drawer bottoms and had scraps so I tried it for my PM 66: works great. They're as close as dam*it to dead flush, no leveling screws required.
I just made one with 1/2 "tuffak" - a plexiglass like substance. Quite inflexible and you can see through it...Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
Mark,
Clear insert sounds cool ... but I'm not clear how it adds value. For a novice/beginner such as myself I wonder if it would be a distracting influence.
Do you find the clear insert helps you in specific ways? Inquiring Mind Wants to Know ... ;-)
No real value actually, just cool to see the blade spinning below the table :-)M.
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
Visit Dust Maker
I would prefer the insert to be non-transparent, a clearly defined area that says "I'm different, stay away, I will eat your fingers." If the insert were clear, that area would blend in with the rest of the mechanical appearance of the saw. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
FG, I'll post a pic. It' stands out well and you can see the blade - nothing "louder" than that except highway orange :-)Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
Visit Dust Maker
Exactly!!! Why do you think some manufacturers paint the stock plate red? I paint mine red (at school, work for me).
Donkeyeww...don't poke me there, it hurts.
I just made 3 for my new unisaw 1/2 mdf with leving screws .I just found some scrap telflon at work and i will make 1 out of that next
My used saw came with an MDF throatplate. Only problem I've had with it is that in the dead of winter, the humidity swells it if I'm out of the shop for more than a day or so (wood stove runs when I'm out there). Makes it hard to get out for blade changes etc.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Yes. I use 1/2 MDF. Bandsawn approx to size. Rout using original (metal) as pattern using a bottom bearing mounted pattern bit.
I glue pieces of tongue depressors where the supports on the Unisaw are located to the insert to raise it to the correct height. Considered gluing directly to the TS tabs but was concerned that might screw with future needs.
Works great. Is disposable and cheap.
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