I have a client who has a stack of 9mm (3/8″) and 25mm (1″) mdf that he wants made into a wall of cupboards and a wall of matching panelling. Toal lengtha bout 16 metres (33 ft) by 2.1 (7 ft high)
This guy is a designer but not a woodworker. His idea is to cut the 9mm mdf into 150mm (6″) strips, rebate it by 50mm (2″) by 4mm (go figure”) then plant this as a surrond onto slabs of the 25mm stuff. There’s a bit more moulding, involved, but you get the picture…
I’ve used a lot of MDF as a carcassing material, and for shelves, flat doors (including some pierced) and even a bit of edge moulding, buit never like this.
My guit reaction is that the idea is bad. The wide shallow rebate in the 9mm stock will look bad as it won’t be surface-smooth. The planted-on strips give a big gluing problem, (how do you clamp all that? and how join it? Mitres? Please no!
There are other problems which i want go into save to say that assymetrical router cutters are hard to come by.
So, trying to give this guy something like what he wants, I could
a: Use a comboination of router cutters, fences, baseplates and so on to cut ‘fielded’ panels out of solid mdf stock.
b: Use conventional joinery techniques for the fixed pannelling – cut the MDF into strips, groove, join, field pannels etc. Piece of cake
c: But how could I make this work for doors? Is mdf strong enough to support framed cabinet doors with short tenons or biscuits? It would have to be done with a router and tct cutters. I ain’t sticking no mortiser through MDF. Are there any good books on MDF techniques? As thois is all going to be painted, my own bet would be on softwood stiles, tops and bottomns with moulded/fielded mdf panels – the latter could be done with a tct shaper block
Or should I just choose a different career?
Replies
MDF is like a Woman.. After the DUST settles she either likes you or not!..
MDF WILL finish well.. Just when you cut anything sucks up a sealer like ya won't believe.. If a REALLY picky customer have it finished by a PRO shop using Automotive techniques..
I would suggest if you WILL make money on this project AND the client not to into his/her self... sit down and talk about your concerns..
Sure you can work it out somehow...
MDF is some wood and mostly glue!..
EDIT:: You posted... 25mm (1") mdf
You WILL need a helper!
Edit1: 25mm (1") mdf I thought it was 25.4?
Edited 9/6/2005 8:30 pm ET by WillGeorge
Edited 9/6/2005 8:31 pm ET by WillGeorge
Thanks, WillGeooge. I do know what MDF is, and the finishing thereof (and the dust!). And I know my client is happy to sit down and discuss this. But what I don't know is how possible it is to use it as 'timber' in conventional joinery - ie framed panelled doors
Tim,
It's not as repulsive as it sounds at first. The glueing is really the easiest part. Since MDF is dead flat, you can glue pieces together with Titebond and just use an air pinner to hold them together until the glue sets. Skip the clamps. The paint will cover everything beautifully. The time gained in glue-up needs to be spent on surface prep. Every exposed edge, as well as the rabbets you make, needs to be prepped with a sealer and sanded before you start the painting. I use drywall compound. Cheap, easy to use, finishes very well.
Go for it.
DR
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