I want to use melamine for some laundry room cabinets. What is the best construction method when using melamine? on several of the cabinets, both sides of the cabinet will be seen. Would using biscuits and melamine glue work?
Thanks,
Scott
I want to use melamine for some laundry room cabinets. What is the best construction method when using melamine? on several of the cabinets, both sides of the cabinet will be seen. Would using biscuits and melamine glue work?
Thanks,
Scott
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Replies
We've done plenty of kitchens exactly like that. Consider that in the industry, in large production factories, they use dowels.
Thanks for the help guys.
Scott
Biscuits will work fine.
For glue, you could use regular yellow glue; it won't stick to the melamine, but it will work with the biscuits.
Alternative, you could use the relatively new construction adhesive from Loctite called "Power Grip." It is white, thinner than regular construction adhesive, and squeeze-out can be removed with a water-dampened cloth.
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"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Biscuits and screws used here.
Ends have a cover sheet and screwed from inside.
Look into confirmat screws.
Thet are fast to use and hold extremely well.
They were designed for particleboard and MDF.
I used them when I used to make closet fixtures. Faster than dowels or biscuits.
J.P.
Biscuits and screws are fine the best screws for this type of construction are stepped screws called either confirmat or director screws you use a special stepped drill all of which should be available from good cabinet makers supply outfits you can even leave out the biscuits they hold so well.
Regards from OZ
You can make it fool proof but not idiot proof
On exposed ends, how do I hide the screws?
Thanks
Scott
Scott
Mudman has summed up the answer to your question very wellYou can make it fool proof but not idiot proof
How do I hade screws?
Ends have a cover sheet and screwed from inside.
Titebond makes a melamine glue that will work on melamine surfaces and wood. I agree that confirmat screws are the way to go. Make sure the back is solid and and it is a good idea for the top to be solid as well. In melamine cabinets the ends are usually covered with a decorative panel that hides the construction fastners. Fast Cap makes PVC stickers that match the melamine and hide the hole pretty well.
Pardon my spelling,
Mike
Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.
Biscuit joinery was developed to construct particleboard, MDF and Melimine coated substrates. They will work fine for your carcases.
The advantage of using (3/8) dowels is, because of their tight fit, you can pre-drill all your panels (including pilot holes for your confirmat bit), then assemble the entire case without the aid of glue or clamps. Just tap together with a mallet, and using the pilot holes for alignment, drill screw holes with cofirmat bit. At this point, if you want to use glue, tap a wedge in between the panels just enough to separate them a little, apply some glue, tap back together, and zip in your confirmat screws.
Obviously, you could use biscuits in the same way, you would just need to use clamps during assembly.
Max
thanks for all of the help guys.
Scott
When I am not adding a panel to the side of the cabinet I use biscuits along with pocket screws in the underside of the bottom and on the two top stretchers. If it is an exposed back I just use biscuits to hold that in. The pocket screws do away with having to use clamps. I too have used confirmat screws and they work fine.
As a professional cabinetmaker and engineer, I strongly disagree with the idea of constructing a cabinet carcase with just biscuits; and adding screws is only slightly better. You can do this in your own home and get away with it, but I am not going to put my business and livelihood on the line with the liability of a carcase or partition failing when loaded.
The shear-strength of a biscuit is far too low to support the weight of a loaded horizontal partition (shelf), especially when coupled with the tensile forces that are added if the partition sags in the process. Even though I have been repeating this information for over 10 years now, to put this into more modern terms, these are the exact same forces present when the World Trade Center floors pancaked and the towers fell. (I am not saying this for shock-value, but it is the same set of forces, and many people have seen the animations.)
When you place a biscuit (and/or conformat screw) into the edge of a horizontal partition, you cut the effective thickness of that partition in half in terms of its shear-strength. All of the weight of that partition is being supported by the upper 1/4-inch of material above the biscuit, and any thickness below the biscuit is of no value or strength. Would you be willing to place 100 pounds of dishes on a piece of 1/4-inch thick particleboard with your child playing below? I wouldn’t!
Next, the idea of using melamine-rated adhesives is of only minor value. The surface of the plywood is just melamine-impregnated paper (melamine is a glue, not the material). Any wood turner will tell you how easy it is to separate two pieces of wood that are glued together with a piece of paper between them, and that is exactly what will happen when you try to glue to the surface of a melamine-coated sheet of plywood. Just because the adhesive bonds to the surface of the melamine sheet does not prevent the impregnated paper from delaminating.
The sheer act of handling and installing these cabinets on the wall is enough to break the glue joints, and all you are left with is the shear strength of a biscuit into a particleboard edge.
In my professional opinion as both a cabinetmaker that has been building with melamine for over 20 years, and as an engineer; I would never construct a melamine cabinet carcase using biscuits, regardless whether screws were used or not. The only method of construction I would recommend is a dadoed joint with glue.
With a dadoed joint, you are utilizing the full thickness of the partition instead of the 1/4 inch effective thickness. Furthermore, the shear-strength of the sidewall is infinite because the forces are propagated throughout the entire vertical length of the sidewall. The only way a dadoed joint will fail is if the sidewalls separate.
Rick,
thanks for the thoughts.
Scott
We are talking kitchen carcass's here,where once fixed is never moved again.
Or at least I thought we were.!
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