Replies

1. 
   rckendall | Jul 01, 2003 04:13pm | #1

   erich,

   I think you are on the right track with the toothpick idea, but I suggest using maybe a small dowel, so that the new hole would all be in the same material. This will help keep the drill or screw from walking.

   I'm anxious to see what others say myself.

   Richard

2. 
   IanC | Jul 01, 2003 04:58pm | #2

   erich, I've had to re-position Brusso hinges (and others) many times on small boxes.  It's maddening but nothing to kick yourself over.  Worse yet is to twist the head off a brass screw and have to drill that sucker out!  Anyway, I use the toothpick method.  I shave off some splinters of the same wood, glue them into the old hole and let it dry.  Don't rush the drying.  Then gently drill a new hole and try again.  If I have a steel screw identical to the brass one, I use it to pre-thread the hole.  I too hope somebody has a better solution.

   Ian

3. 
   Steinmetz | Jul 01, 2003 08:00pm | #3

   Erich,  Go to your shoe repair guy. Ask him for a handful of those wooden nails/pegs.

   I get mine from a wholesale shoemaker's supply

      NO! I'm NOT a shoemaker, but I occasionaly goof (As we all do) and they look good when you use them on restoration work (looks like ancient repair)  They won't split the hole and they take stain too. Stein

   
   

   ---

   Edited 7/1/2003 1:04:26 PM ET by steinmetz

4. 
   DavidP52 | Jul 01, 2003 09:19pm | #4

   I had this problem and couldn't fix it by merely filling the holes and redrilling.You can't drill straight through wood AND epoxy if the drill runs between the two. The harder material will cause the bit to change course. Same for the toothpick idea. Whichever you fill the old hole with, drill the hole oversize so that the new hole will ONLY run into the new material, which makes the tooth pick idea not so good. Hope this helps.

1. 
   tzach | Jul 01, 2003 10:17pm | #5

   I agree with you on this boatman.  The drilled hole will come out cleaner and truer if the exsisting hole is drilled larger and filled with a plug.

5. 
   pauld | Jul 02, 2003 05:53am | #6

   Erich,

   I've had good luck drilling out the hole at the drill press with a Forstner or brad point bit, followed by making a plug (with a plug cutter) to fit the hole. This leaves me with new material in which to drill a new screw hole. Let the glue cure completely, or you run the risk of removing your new plug when you try to drill the new hole!

   Good luck,
   Paul

1. 
   erich | Jul 02, 2003 04:45pm | #7

   Thanks everybody,

        I think I will try the drilling out the holes a bit larger than they are now and plug.  I was worried about the differences in materials causing deflection of the bit to start with.  I guess you can only mess up and fix with this method so many times, huh?  I'd better get it right this time!   Again, thanks to you all for your feedback...

   Erich

1. 
   pauld | Jul 02, 2003 07:42pm | #8

   Erich,

   I forgot to mention the significance of grain orientation; much like installing wedges (as in wedged tenons), the orientation of the grain can effect both the potential for splitting (as well as the ability of the screw to bite and hold).

   If you orient your plug/dowel at right angles to the grain of the piece in which it is being inserted it may help prevent the screw from forcing open a crack in the workpiece along the grain.

   You can also insert a dowel in MDF or particle board, perpendicular to the screw orientation, to provide something for the screw to bite into.

   Good luck,Paul