Replies

1. 
   aew | May 30, 2007 03:28pm | #1

   I can't tell you how much they will hold but I used them to mount kitchen cabinets (uppers) to a brick masonry wall a couple of years ago and they have held the cabinets, all the dishes, a microwave oven, etc. without any problems. I think the capacity is most likely that of the mounting system you use. If they are mounted solidly into studs with long screws, I doubt you will have any significant problems.

2. 
   bigfootnampa | May 30, 2007 03:33pm | #2

   Use the 36" lengths, overlap between cabinets if possible, get heavy screws into each stud and use good hollow wall anchors where there are no studs.  That should do the trick.  I used to set closet organizer units on similar rails (ours were 1/8" steel) that were made of chipboard covered with melamine (VERY heavy).  They held up fine. 

   The trick is to get adequate additive strength from many fasteners and to interlock as much as possible so that weak fasteners will not be exposed because stronger ones take up the slack.  We used continuous lengths  of hanging rails (we had 12 ft. stock) to make it easier to avoid weakness at the ends of rails.  If I couldn't get studs at every 16" I would put in hollow wall fasteners at 8" to 10" spacing and fasteners at the ends of each length of rail. 

   Ten 40 pound anchors in drywall (easy to acheive) will hang 400 pounds.  Of course, if you have a real 400 pounds to hang, you'd like to get at least 800 pounds of anchors in for a 2x safety factor.

3. 
   RickL | May 30, 2007 03:55pm | #3

   Those are made by http://www.monarchmetal.com/

   1) HOW MUCH WEIGHT CAN A MONARCH Z-CLIP HOLD?

   This is a question that we get asked a lot. The MONARCH Z-CLIP is extruded from billit aluminum alloy 6063-T6. By itself the MONARCH Z-CLIP will withstand thousands of pounds of stress, both compressive and tensile. The concern should not be with the structural integrity of the clip, but with integrity of the substraint you are screwing into and the hardware you are using. Taking four #8 x 3/4" pan head screws, and two MF625 - 1 1/2" Z-CLIPS, we mounted the Z-CLIPS to two 2x4s and connected them both together. We put a load on the assembly trying to break the connection. It failed at 475lbs, the screws pulled out of the wood and NO VISIBLE DAMAGE WAS NOTED TO THE Z-CLIPS.

1. 
   hotwheels | May 30, 2007 05:23pm | #4

   These kinds of cleats/fasteners must leave a gap between the cabinet and the wall. Is the usual solution to use molding to cover the gap?

1. 
   MikeHennessy | May 30, 2007 08:31pm | #6

   "Is the usual solution to use molding to cover the gap?"

   No. The usual solution is to design for the cleat. In traditional construction, the cleat is formed by the top rail of the cab back, with the back of the cab recessed enough to accomodate the cleat fastened to the wall.

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

1. 
   hotwheels | May 30, 2007 09:56pm | #7

   That makes sense ... in a retrofit situation where the cabinet back is flat without any recess, then it seems something like the monarch clips could be adapted by cutting a place to mount them or is this not possible?

2. 
   RickL | May 30, 2007 11:59pm | #8

   One could use moulding but it would look so unprofessional. Insetting the back would be the way to do it.

1. 
   hotwheels | May 31, 2007 01:22am | #9

   I think I will try that ... the other options for trying to hang a flat-back cabinet are not as stout as I would like nor as easy to retrofit. THANKS

2. 
   user-200815 | Jun 01, 2007 06:00am | #10

   Ask a question and get several great answers. Magic.Will get the clips / hangers BEFORE doing the cabinets.
   Will probably also bevel the inside back edges of the
   sides of the shelf / cabinit units in case some scribing
   and trimming is required to match the wall. Lot's easier
   removing wood from 1/4" than from 3/4". The guy
   who did my addition was an Old School guy - do it right
   - the first time - and get paid a bit more for the quality
   of work, so the wall is pretty straight. Of course, when
   you actually hang the cabinets unseen irregurlaties
   invariably show.Am going to go with masonry/cement screws - lots
   harder and stronger than hardware store "silver"
   screws.Thanks to all.charlie b

4. 
   BruceS | May 30, 2007 05:50pm | #5

   Load capacity ?  But overkill is a good thing,  use quality steel or stainless steel screws that will hold under shear load.  DO NOT use drywall screws,  they are not meant or designed for shear load.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

   
   

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   Edited 5/30/2007 10:52 am ET by BruceS