Replies

1. 
   jackplane | Nov 18, 2007 05:01am | #1

   use a 1/8 straight bit in a router with a guide or template.

   insert 1/8 inch metal trim.

   Expert since 10 am.

1. 
   danjohnston | Nov 18, 2007 02:48pm | #4

   ok, I understand that kind of inlay, I'm looking more for melted metal work where the design is rather detailed.

2. 
   mapleman | Nov 18, 2007 07:52am | #2

   Dan,

   Here are some photos of the molten metal technique. Don't laugh, I made this table about 12 years ago when I was first starting out. After I did the keys to secure the crack, I got the idea for the kite motif. I used the metal for the kite "string". Used a 1/8" router bit for the groove, heated the metal and poured it in. After cooling I scraped it with a hand scraper (sanding the metal produced a matte/satin finish - scraping produces more of a gleaming shiny metal look).

   Lee

   
1. 
   danjohnston | Nov 18, 2007 02:46pm | #3

   actually, nice table. good way to tie in elements, nice piece of wood. What kind of metal?

   bwt, here's some of my work: http://www.to-n-fro.net never get enough time, but keeps me out of bars.

   kind regards,

   dj

1. 
   mapleman | Nov 18, 2007 09:45pm | #8

   Dan,

   Can't remember the name, but I bought it from Highland Hardware in Atlanta through their catalog about the same time I built the table. I have not seen it in their catalog for years, but I have been meaning to call and see if they know where to obtain it because I would like to try it again.

   Thanks for the compliments.

   The cherry crotch came from Groff & Groff hardwoods in Penn. - I paid less than $100 for it and knew the moment I saw it that it would make a great table. Couldn't wait to get it home and start working - don't you just love those projects?

   The leg assemblies are removeable as is the stretcher connecting them - that way when we have a party or a lot of company we can remove the legs and stand the crotch up against the wall (our place is pretty small)

   Lee

1. 
   danjohnston | Nov 19, 2007 03:14pm | #11

   found TIX, even have it on ebay. $14 per tube of 3" rods. It's perfect.

   Few years ago, friend wanted a huge red oak out of his yard. Good excuse to buy a nice 32" Huskavarna chain saw w ripping chain and Alaska Mill. Took most of it's 30" wide plank home for future use. Ripped a nice cherry tree into flinches like your's, albeit less width. Might be fun to make something for grandkids and do inlays with TIX.

   dj

2. 
   Jfrostjr | Nov 18, 2007 05:10pm | #6

   That's real cool. Looks great! Congratulations.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

1. 
   mapleman | Nov 18, 2007 09:48pm | #9

   Frosty/Jackplane,

   Thanks for the kind words! The table was my first venture into handplane smoothing and it worked well except for the feather crotch areas. Lots of sanding and scraping those areas.

   Lee

1. 
   danjohnston | Nov 19, 2007 03:17pm | #12

   meant to ask, do you undercut the channel sides with a ' < ' to get the solder to stay in place?

3. 
   jackplane | Nov 18, 2007 06:47pm | #7

   that's an excellent example of working with a defect/design change and incorporating it into a really nice piece.  well done.Expert since 10 am.

3. 
   joinerswork | Nov 18, 2007 04:53pm | #5

   dan,

   There is a low-temp solder called "Tix" that might work for you.  As I recall, it melts at something like 250*F.   Available thru Brownell's (gunsmith supplies), and probably your local welding supply house.

   Ray

1. 
   danjohnston | Nov 19, 2007 04:48am | #10

   that's it...perfect. do you undercut the side walls to 'hold' tix in place or is that necessary?

1. 
   joinerswork | Nov 19, 2007 05:45pm | #13

   dan,

   That's what I'd do.  Not sure if it's really necessary.

   Ray