Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Sep 07, 2006 05:27pm | #1

   How would you use the dowels?

   John W.

1. 
   Troy | Sep 07, 2006 08:00pm | #2

   I would use them instead of dowels to pin the tenons Thanks

1. 
   JohnWW | Sep 07, 2006 11:01pm | #5

   For drawboring, where the pin holes are slightly offset to pull the joint tight, you would have to use ordinary dowels. 

   For simple pinning of the glued and clamped joints, Miller dowels would work better because they are easier to drive, but their shorter dowels might be a bit weak since they are small in diameter.  If the joints are well made, the dowels aren't needed and don't add a lot of additional strength in any case.

   John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine

1. 
   Troy | Sep 08, 2006 12:19am | #6

   ThanksTroy

2. 
   nmugzy40 | Sep 07, 2006 08:18pm | #3

   COULD YOU TELL ME WHERE YOU GOT THE 4 INCH SPIRAL BIT

   THANKS     

                                  NICK

    

1. 
   Troy | Sep 07, 2006 08:33pm | #4

   CMT makes them 1/2" shank 4" long. the cutting length is 2"Troy

3. 
   BruceS | Sep 08, 2006 04:07pm | #7

   I used Miller dowels on a Mission style bed,  Granted they are not square so I call their use in this case Artistic license.  They were a pleasure to use,  No jigs, no dowel aligning pins.  Just clamp the pieces and use their stepped drill.  Couldn't be easier.  They are available at.

   http://www.eagleamerica.com 

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

4. 
   daryl | Sep 08, 2006 05:19pm | #8

   I love Miller Dowels. They are not really for high end use where the dowel will be exposed (since the dowel is end grain), but for shop cabinets, or hidden joinery or sheetgoods, they are fast and strong. I mean really fast. I think they now have mahogany dowels for outdoor use.

5. 
   Handrubbed | Sep 08, 2006 11:41pm | #9

   How do you really feel?

6. 
   gb93433 | Sep 10, 2006 08:36am | #10

   whne I make entry doors I usually go about 4 inches deep. Initially I use a 4 fluted mortising bit on a horizontal mortiser to make the hole about 1" deep and then finish the holes with progressively longer bits to about 3" and then finally with a drill that I have ground a brad point on to reach 4" deep. The mortises are double rowed and not more than 2.5" wide. On the bottom rail I usually make about six mortises 3/8" wide by 4" deep.

1. 
   Troy | Sep 11, 2006 03:32am | #11

   Many thanks.Troy