Replies

1. 
   UncleDunc | Jan 01, 2004 07:54am | #1

   Have you looked for that model or similar on eBay? That's always my first choice for quick and dirty pricing on things. You have to watch out for shill bidding, and you're not likely to get a real representative sample when there's only one or two of an item listed. But it gives you a little feeling for the market.

1. 
   DennisS | Jan 02, 2004 06:12am | #4

   Hi Unc' -

   Haven't bothered with e-bay; not *that* interested in the worth of the tool, just a passing curiousity. I bought it as a genuine user. I've got my Grandad's ol' Miller Falls jack plane with the flat sole but this one seems to have a little more mass and .... I save grampa's planes for the real serious stuff (grin)

   But thanks for the e-bay suggestion. If I ever get that curious again I'll know one place to turn.

   ...........

   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.

   Dennis

2. 
   Steinmetz | Jan 01, 2004 01:45pm | #2

   Dennis, Clean it, sharpen it and USE it. After use, clean and lightly oil it. You'll appreciate it more than money.

    Your Son or Daughter will fight over it when it's time to hang up your tool belt (or, you 'Buy the farm')  Stein.  

1. 
   DennisS | Jan 02, 2004 06:19am | #5

   Exactly the case, Stein - I bought it as a user only. No interest in collecting, at this point anyway.

   I had the iron well sharpened then decided to try that electrolysis thing and ... in spite of what I've read, there *is* some of the base iron transfered in the process. I had a rather keen edge on the iron and after giving it about four hours in the electrolysis bath, the edge looked almost like a searrated knive blade (grin) .... well, not that bad but I could definitely see minute knicks in the edge that I'm positive weren't there before.

   Problem with the iron is .... it was left with the cap on in a damp place and the areas where the cap contacted the iron were pretty rusted. The electrolysis took off the rust very nicely but the iron is pretty well stained. Well back from the edge, though, so shouldn't affect the cutting ability of the tool.

   Soon's the shop thaws out I'm planning on lapping the sole on a nice piece of marble I ran across. Get the iron all back in shape and I'll be makin' shavings with it "just as soon as I'm able".

   ...........

   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.

   Dennis

1. 
   Steinmetz | Jan 02, 2004 07:04am | #7

   Dennis, I've been cleaning and restoring planes for30 years and my best tools for removing rust/oxides/ gunk are

   Steel wire wheel.(2" -6")For paint/rust and small screw threads.

   Bronze wire wheel.(6")   Mostly for chromeBrass and aluminum/ white metal.

   The very very bestis a 1"wide x 6"dia SCOTCHBRITE wheel

   This wheel will impart a polished surface on chisels/plane irons/steel and brass parts etc. (Go lightly on chrome.)

   You don't need a dedicated bench grinderFor these wheels, as I get along with the aformentioned wheels mounted on arbors (Sears)and my 3/8" variable drill. Electrolisis will eat sharp edges, but not if coated with ashphaltum.

   Another great tool is called a 'Ring Clamp/Vise'(used by jewelers to hold small metal parts while polishing)

   Nuts/bolts/ screws/ etc etc. After cleaning and sharpeningand polishing the plane, treat it to a wipe of lemon oil and stand back and admire.   Stein.

   Scotchbrite wheels can be ordered from McMasters-Carr. Asphaltum Used by plumbers to stop molten solder from sticking or running beyond the joint.

   Bronze wheels or, brass also from Mc Master 

2. 
   JohnWW | Jan 03, 2004 08:24pm | #10

   Dennis,

   Marble is very soft, if you were planning to flatten the plane sole on the marble with loose abrasive you'll probably just dish out the stone.  Using the marble with emery paper should work fine.

   John W.

3. 
   EdHarrison | Jan 01, 2004 03:41pm | #3

   Dennis,

   I've got a mint type 2 (1937-47) Millers Falls Iron jack plane with original box and the red frog in my collection of Millers Falls. I've also got a red frog that will fit a No. 9 or No. 14 (equivalent to Stanley No. 4 or No.5 ) that you can have for the price of the postage. The extra red frog has been used somewhat but is still in good shape. E-mail me through knots and I will mail it to you. It is extra and superfluous to my collection of planes and I am maxxed out on planes and restoring them, now. (Just got done restoring a Sweetheart era Stanley No. 5 1/2 to hardware store new condition and it is schweeet!)

   Someone asked the quesiton of how do you match the Millers Falls red before, I believe it was on the Old Tools mail list forum and no one seemed to know. Same with the Stanley "Cheetos Orange" that they put on some of their sweetheart era stuff. I would take it to a hobby shop where they have about a bazillion of those little bottles of enamel paint and color-match from there. I would use that stuff to paint your plane.

   As for its value - maybe $20 to $40 if used. Millers Falls runs less than Stanley. It is a good plane that will last forever in your shop, though. I like the two-piece lever cap design, and I like the tool steel that they use for their irons but I usually wind up replacing with Hock anyway, for the users. Millers Falls is just a good, old fashion, quality American tool company.

   Let me know if you want me to send you the red frog. Ed

1. 
   DennisS | Jan 02, 2004 06:24am | #6

   Hi Ed -

   Yeah, it was pretty well used (and abused) judging from the rust under the cap iron. But the body & soul .... er sole of the instrument are in good shape. It polished up quite nicely.

   Thanks for the offer of the frog. I don't really need it since the one on the plane is fine - just needs painting to look ... er - cool. So I'll check out the hobby stores as you suggest and see if I can come fairly close.

   I gather the black stuff on the inside of the plane is what I see refered to as 'japaning'? That wasn't affected by the soda/electrolysis bath epeisode but the paint on the frog just seemed to wash off when I gave it it's final cleaning after treatment.

   Looking forward to getting the iron back in shape, checking the sole for flatness and reducing some wood to fine shavings.

   Thanks for the info and input on the value. Not interested in it as a monetary item but was curious where Miller Falls stood with respect to Stanley.

   ...........

   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.

   Dennis

4. 
   PlaneWood | Jan 03, 2004 03:33am | #8

   Dennis -

   To match the Miller Falls red, go to HD and get a half pint of the 'Apple Red' oil based paint (Painters Touch by Rust-oleum).  Pour about half, or less, into a small container and mix in black oil based paint until the color matches.  Start with about a 20:1 ratio (red:black) and work from there.

   After it's dry to the touch, bake the frog under a heat lamp for an hour or so.

   I would place the quality of Miller Falls planes at about the same as the early (type 11, 12, 13) Stanley Bailey planes.  Maybe a little better.  They are almost identical except for the double jointed lock down.  I think that feature was just to avoid patent infringements.  The base castings seem to be a little thicker, on average.  The quality of the cast iron is about par with the early Stanleys.  The later Stanleys used a lesser quality cast iron, in my opinion.

   Mike

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

1. 
   DennisS | Jan 03, 2004 06:49am | #9

   Thanks for the info, Mike.

   I'd go further with this little re-build project but it's been unbearably cold in my unheated shop the past few days. But appreciate the direction towards the red paint.

   Happy new year~

   ...........

   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.

   Dennis